The Place
It used to be craft beer (Tipsy) and specialty coffee (Pressroom) that brought us to 289 Art Space. Now, it’s falafels, hummus, lamb tagine and cocktails, in a setting that works just as well for lunch as it does late-night drinks.
La Medina – named after the maze-like medina (or ‘old city’) quarters in Morocco – is set away from the road in a quiet section of the park, making its outdoor patio secluded enough for working or gazing into the eyes of your unexpectedly chivalrous Tinder date.
It’s also one of the only establishments in 289 with its own bathroom, so you don’t have to trek halfway across the city when nature calls.
Inside, candlelight and hanging Moroccan stained glass lamps set the tone for what we anticipate will be an exotic dining experience, but that, on the contrary, stirs up pangs of homesickness – likely because we grew up with chickpeas, thyme and lemon chicken.
The Food
The founders – two young men from France who joke that, when they opened La Medina, local friends expressed excitement at trying real Faguo cai, only to learn that the pair had opened a Moroccan restaurant and bar – strive to present authentic fare like they tasted (and fell in love with) while visiting North Africa.
They’ve personally sought out and hired a Moroccan chef, import fresh spices straight from the medina and even brought back special glasses used to serve Moroccan mint tea (RMB35) – which, we might add, ranks right up there with the best hot chocolates when it comes to irresistible warm beverages.
If you stop in for drinks, the signature cocktails deserve your attention. We can vouch for the Garden of Eden (Eden Mill Pink Love Gin, fresh raspberries, lime juice, rose water and tonic water, RMB60) and, if you don’t mind anise, the Green Dash (Pernod, cucumber syrup, mojito syrup, lime juice and soda water, RMB60). The cucumber complements the Pernod extremely well; it’s a balance that took months to perfect, we’re told.
Ordering a round of tapas is essential to experiencing all that La Medina has to offer. Try the shrimp chermoula (RMB58), marinated in a pungent herb sauce, and, for large groups, the mezze platter (RMB110), a collection of homemade hummus, carrot chermoula, taktouka (a zesty puree of tomatoes and green pepper), homemade marinated olives, Moroccan salad and homemade merguez, or mutton- and beef-based sausage.
For mains, the menu is actually quite simple: guests can select a couscous dish (generous enough for two to share, RMB65-92) and one or more tagines, which are essentially savory stews slow-cooked in a cone-shaped earthenware pot. You can also choose to pair a tagine with a bowl of rice or couscous.
Though the quail eggs in the kefta tagine (RMB75) – made with homemade meatballs, herbs, tomatoes and onions – were a treat, we preferred the juicy chicken thigh doused in preserved lemons and olives (chicken tagine, RMB72).
The real highlight of the evening, however, was the lamb tagine (RMB85), crafted with lamb shank from Xinjiang slow-cooked with caramelized prunes and apricots. Sweet yet complex, it’s bound to be a favorite – even among those who claim to prefer salty dishes.
Given how unique each tagine is, we suggest you order at least two and share them (or casually devour the entire lamb tagine while your friend is in the bathroom).
The Vibe
Cozy and enchanting, La Medina buzzes with an underlying energy as people from all walks of life come together to try authentic Moroccan cuisine, whether for their first time ever or simply their first time in Guangzhou.
Price: RMB200 for a couscous dish, tagine and cocktail
Who’s going: anyone who misses homemade hummus, falafels and couscous
Good for: Moroccan cuisine, an intimate bar experience
[Photos by Jocelyn Richards]
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