Situated in the charming dining area of Lingnan Tiandi, The Locksmith’s exterior vaulted façade draws one’s attention first. The impressive deco design originates from Australian firm Studio Y, and is just one indication that The Locksmith is pushing the boundaries of the F&B scene in Foshan.
On a rainy weekday afternoon, we’re greeted personally by Head Chef E.J. and elect to sit at a table that affords a perfect view of the happenings in the expansive and modern kitchen. All garnishes, herbs, flowers and a range of other produce is grown onsite at The Locksmith, giving a garden-fresh aroma to every dish.
Australian chef E.J. personally cures eye-of-round, as well as dry-ages beef, pork, chicken, goose and pigeon himself before cooking it in a Josper oven from Spain – one of only five in China.
To kick off our meal, we start with the smoked eggplant served with roast lemon, Baharat spice and coriander (RMB28) and an assortment of bread made in-house (E.J. mills and bakes all his own bread too). Try the focaccia and sourdough when you visit, both RMB28.
The main course consists of the giant river prawn (RMB58) and the somewhat ominously-named ‘Leather Jacket fish’ (price varies by size), both of which are excellent. The fish, though somewhat bony, is doused in a creative mix of spices and garnish that has us eagerly pining for the very last bits of meat on the platter.
Dessert comes in the form of a hollow chocolate egg stuffed with a delightful combination of mango and coconut, and is served on a bed of dried mango and brownie crumbs (RMB98). We’re instructed to crack it open with a hammer, which is mildly unnerving and feels a bit like the scene in Django Unchained, where Leonardo DiCaprio threatens to split open the skull of Samuel L. Jackson’s father. The result, however, is altogether delicious.
In between courses, we sate our thirst with regular drinks at the bar, where the theme of meticulous stylization continues. The house cocktails are all mixed by Perth native and resident bartender Joe and show an attention to detail that would give pause to even the most full-bearded hipster barista in downtown Seattle. Of course, all garnishes are grown on-site. The matcha flip (RMB98), a cocktail made with superfood-of-the-moment matcha tea, is our personal favorite.
Having just opened, The Locksmith is still an undiscovered culinary gem. Go now before it gets trendy and overrun by selfie-stick wielding diners whose sole existence is to post food photos on WeChat Moments.
But really, there is high-concept stuff here that wouldn’t be out of place on Shanghai’s Bund. The fact that such a dining option is available close by – just an hour outside of Guangzhou – should not be taken for granted.
Price: RMB200
Who’s going: foodies in the know, anyone visiting Foshan
Good for: a classy evening out, home-grown produce and herbs
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