A three-story restaurant housed in part of an old warehouse, Kitchen More claims a line of rustic windows facing the wharf that allow copious light to spill inside. It’s like dining in the warmth of the sun on a wintry day or, if you come before sunset, in front of a marvelous painting.
A metal staircase winds onto the second floor, where minimalistic furnishings and dangling light bulbs give the space an industrial-chic feel. An open kitchen brings diners in direct contact with the chefs, while a spacious dining area on the third floor (which has yet to open) offers a place for private gatherings.
Situated on Huandao Lu in Haizhu District, Kitchen More lacks the kind of competitive location that its neighbor – the restaurant-packed Taigucang Wharf – enjoys. To win diners’ hearts, therefore, the venue needs an especially appealing menu, and in that, its chef Dannies is confident. The former sous-chef to a Swedish chef at the Grand Hyatt, Dannies is no stranger to fine cuisine.
The main source of his confidence, it turns out, is beef Wellington (RMB188). Complex and demanding, this is a dish scarcely seen in Guangzhou’s restaurants (partly because it requires 40 minutes just to cook). Yet Chef Dannies manages to make it taste – and look – elegant, through painstaking execution and detailed preparation.
To start, a beef fillet is wrapped in layers of Parma ham, mushrooms and puff pastry, before being braised in an oven until pink and juicy. When prepared well, it vaunts a simultaneously crispy texture as well as a creamy, tender feel born from the ham and mushroom hash.
Open for only two months, Kitchen More’s menu is still being tweaked per customers’ feedback, but remains devoted to Scandinavian cuisine. Dishes are cooked with only the freshest of ingredients, for which its owners and chef forage every morning in the local market.
When you visit, start with the Iceland scallop with orange, caviar and fennel (RMB68) to whet your appetite. Alternatively, opt for the beautifully presented smoked salmon (RMB60), imported from Norway, which boasts an oaky, fresh flavor.
The Copenhagen smorrebrod (RMB68) – a kind of Danish open sandwich with one slice of bread and a bounty of toppings – is another fascinating find. The ingredients vary by season and the chef’s improvisation, but salmon, fig and almond dominate for the time being.
Some Northern European-inspired cocktails are selling well here, among which the ‘Snow Queen’ (RMB68) is not to be missed. It’s made by mixing lemonade with butterfly-pea flower tea – which gives the beverage a purple hue – and is topped with a bit of ginger and pineapple juice for a piquant kick.
If you’re in the mood to savor seafood, do it like the French do and order an impressive seafood platter (price varies by order). Accompanied by a plate of assorted breads, oysters, prawns and king crab legs, it’s the kind of dish that will accompany a long, lazy weekend meal – or a very successful date.
Price: RMB200
Who’s going: In-the-know foodies, couples on dates
Good for: sampling beef Wellington, gastronomic pleasure
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