It was early in the 1980s when one New York Times Magazine wrote about Vietnamese food. The flavors, they penned, and we quote directly, “were like lightning bolts to our jaded palates.” The chicsters, the hippies and the culinary bigwigs greeted it rapturously and hastened to try it. Fresh herbs! Lively flavors! Oh, and pho! Lighter than Chinese, it was seemingly less fiery than Thai. And then, just like that, it became a part of our gastronomic landscape.
Red Chilli, the newest member of the Senses group of restaurants, implies heat. Now, we’re not being fussy, but the name also implies singular. In other words, if it is spice you’re after, the kind that gets your pulse racing as you mop beads of sweat from your brow, look elsewhere. At Red Chilli, you’ll find gentler-on-the-tongue Pan-Asian fusion, with a heavier focus on Vietnamese, and, given the similarity in ingredients, some Thai thrown in for good measure.
The simple menu appears to have all the trimmings, with a notable interest in crunchy cabbage and green limes, fresh garlic, lemongrass, basil and pandan leaves. There are a few authentic gems buried, so do look closely. A satisfactory char-grilled pork neck (RMB58) appears on the list of appetizers. Thin and slightly chewy, the meat is basted and flavored with just enough depth. Given its penchant for reinventing the culinary wheel, the Thai prawn carpaccio with lime chilli relish (RMB98) fits the bill.
For salads, go upmarket and sink your teeth into some crispy soft-shell crabs and crunchy green mango salad (RMB68). Curries tend to be on the sweeter side, but are still good. Try the braised beef short ribs in red curry sauce (RMB98).
If there is a downside to dining here, it’s that you pay for what you get, and if you happen to have expensive taste buds – say, lobster – then be prepared to shell out. For instance, if you’re ordering said crustacean at a hefty 700 grams, it comes at a price tag of RMB468. It might seem a lot if you’re a bean counter, but hey, this is seafood we’re talking about, and it’s never been cheap.
No matter your budget, don’t forget about the pho! At RMB48, it’s well priced and goes down as it should when slurped up with a glass of good wine from the list of well-selected tipples.
Amidst all the theatrics on the table, there’s a certain calm as you walk in, past an entrance that’s painted jade green. Checkered floors, a centered bar, monochromatic portraits of old Saigon and just enough lighting for you to take flattering selfies constitute the interior. Ah, we love selfies, and the presentation of dishes and relentless stimulation of cold, hot, pickled, crisp, tangy and loaded flavors will have you a little overwhelmed.
A plate of mango and sticky rice (RMB48) is the perfect, soothing little sweet to send you back out into the world with a song on your lips. Dine at Red Chilli, if you dare, just don’t complain if you’re expecting Thai street food at rock-bottom prices, doused in blazing pellets of heat. After all, some things in life are simply destined to be finer…
Price: RMB120
Who’s going: fusionistas and pho-natics
Good for: gentler Vietnamese gastronomy, fresh produce
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