The bar scene on Jianshe Liu Malu might as well be screaming SOS. Run-of-the-mill venues are closing, which would be promising, except that they’re being replaced by equally unoriginal, pretentious newcomers.
Flipping through Evo’s menu at the door, we were fervently received by a lady with exceeding hospitality who showed us into an empty two-floor establishment, led us to a seat in front of a TV blasting mainland sports and continued to introduce an endless list of ‘favorable’ meal sets. Her enthusiasm vexed us, to say the least.
Sitting idly and with a twinge of regret, we stared at the bleak vanilla decor, feeling our hunger dissipate into displeasure.
A boxy stage fills a corner on the first floor, the site of live music around 10pm every night. The second floor, accessible from the 1920 entrance or from ground level (next to The Brew), features a live DJ setup, complete with speakers and a dance floor.
Hoegaarden in hand (RMB50), we watched patrons file in at the chorus of ‘Hotel California.’ A DJ shuffled back and forth on the upper floor, preparing a lineup of tracks for the night. At this point, only two tables were occupied. The clock rounded 10.30pm.
Our waitress returned and giddily spouted Evo’s specials. Ladies’ nights are Wednesdays after 9pm, during which time free cocktails (regularly RMB50) are served late into the night. Sex on the beach, cosmopolitan and other common mixed drinks round out the menu.
It’s never enough to compete solely as a bar, so Evo packs in the food options, with pasta and pizza, soups and salads, curry dishes and more. The rib-eye steak with black pepper sauce (RMB98) – served with mashed potatoes, broccoli, carrots and tomatoes on the side – could fill two adults but tasted about as gourmet as a microwavable TV dinner.
A bite of the fruit salad with prawn (RMB38), on the other hand, brightened our spirits with its garden-fresh flavor.
Dinner sets (around RMB90) are available and include a main, soup, salad and one beverage. Why one would spend more to acquire a greater heap of revolting food, however, remains unclear.
Unattractive, vacant and even less appealing than its predecessor FG Fine Foods, Evo is just another bar opening of late. Wait for the next replacement and take your parties elsewhere.
Price: RMB50 for a drink, RMB120 for dinner
Who’s going: Girls who smoke alone, middle-aged male tuhaos
Good for: Fruit salad and… fruit salad
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