It’s hard being the younger follow-up to a legend, be it a sibling, manager or brand. In Guangzhou, Ping Sheng restaurant is revered almost as much as Coca Cola in the 80s – just without the film cameos.
Hsiao Ping Sheng, on the other hand, doesn’t have it so easy. ‘Hsiao’ means ‘small’ in Cantonese, implying a less experienced, inferior version of the original Ping Sheng. Sure, little Ping is occasionally packed to the point of handing out numbers and telling patrons it’s “impossible to predict the wait time,” but usually one can find a seat.
In traditional dim sum style, disposable menus are distributed with a pencil upon sitting down, but those who struggle to read beyond the character 包子 should opt for the arbitrarily translated, laminated version.
Two things jump out from the menu: the “blue bubble water” (RMB13) and the prevalence of animal organs. Resist the urge to pencil in a check for the aforementioned and calmly persist in skimming the remaining options.
Dim sum lovers won’t be disappointed with the egg tarts (RMB4/each), served piping hot with rich insides and a delicate, flaky crust.
Popular dishes sell out by 1pm, so arrive early enough to avoid ordering the soft bone pork noodles (RMB29) by default, which feature tender chips of cartilage among a bed of springy pasta.
If thick, uncut stalks turn you off from Cantonese cuisine, little Ping’s fresh, chopped veggies in shallow broth promise a much more appetizing alternative. The greens – Chinese kale (RMB18), for example – come crisp in savory soup, nutrients intact.
While the restaurant offers a host of southern Chinese dishes, it’s neither strictly dim sum nor Cantonese. Expat favorites like spicy mapo tofu (RMB23) and curry fish balls (RMB29) are prepared up to par.
The venue’s greatest flaw is definitely its service – consider bringing a referee whistle if you plan to capture the staff’s attention after being seated. The space, though accented well with dark wooden furniture and bursts of yellow floral arrangements, lacks privacy, and feels too noisy as a result.
Satisfactory as Hsiao Ping Sheng is, it has a long way to go before catching up to its more refined predecessor. Unless you find yourself on Jianshe Liu with limited cash and an appetite for egg tarts, give little Ping some time to mature before stopping in.
Price: RMB60
Who’s going: Raucous children, retired Cantonese locals
Good for: Sweet buns with tea, clean and crisp veggies
See listing for Hsiao Ping Sheng here.
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