Entering the new branch of Tairyo Teppanyaki on Huasui Lu feels like walking into a children’s wonderland. Decor mimics animated film The Croods, injecting the normally staid Japanese experience with a little Pliocene-era pizzazz.
Nevertheless, owing to the leftover smell of paint, we wouldn’t recommend children or expectant mothers come – not just yet.
When we arrive, Tairyo’s ‘chief’ is keen to highlight the all-you-can-eat buffet (RMB178 per person). Served with a complimentary platter of sashimi that would normally cost RMB105 alone, it’s certainly a good deal, even though the sashimi itself is pretty average fare.
On top of its lunch and dinner sets (from RMB45 to RMB138), Tairyo’s main menu offers several categories of dishes: teppanyaki, barbecue, rice, noodles and dessert.
Clearly the star of the show, the signature teppanyaki offers patrons a variety of ingredient options, ranging from seafood and red meat to vegetables and tofu. The exquisite fried foie gras (RMB30) is generally served first to whet one’s appetite – which it does with panache. Seasoned and sliced in front of patrons by a deft and skilled chef, the mouth-watering fillet beef (RMB68), served right off the griddle, tastes temptingly rich in flavor.
With fresh enough materials and the right condiments, seafood can be even more sumptuous than steak. At Tairyo, the flavored codfish with lemon (RMB48) proves just that – worth a try for fish foodies. To our disappointment, however, the oysters (RMB20 each) are as plain and mediocre as those served on the street.
We’re not complaining about the overall lunching experience at Tairyo’s Zhujiang New Town branch, but there are aspects where it falls short of meriting discerning customers’ return. For now, hold out until the wall-to-wall cave paintings dry and the evolution into a consummate Tairyo experience is complete.
Price: RMB150
Who’s going: Cheap buffet enthusiasts, nearby residents
Good for: All-you-can-eat teppanyaki
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