One of Guangzhou’s oldest districts, ‘distant’ Liwan has seen pitifully few Western or exotic restaurants in its domain when compared to Yuexiu or Tianhe. For expatriates living in this historic area, the days of hunting for an international locale have finally come to an end with Varenna’s arrival.
Strategically located in the middle of Zhongshan Ba Lu and adjacent to Chen Clan Academy, Varenna French Restaurant is the sister bistro of nearby Varenna Italian Pub. With a well-established wooden facade, the eatery is conspicuously situated among a string of tacky boutiques and fast-food joints.
The most noticeable element, upon entering the restaurant, is a row of house brews held in vessels behind the bar. Paintings by French artists hang daintily on surrounding walls, while cobalt pillars jut upward from the floorboards.
Slicing a generous portion of cured duck breast (RMB38), the staff encourages us to begin diving into the menu’s copious delicacies. With a mighty smoky taste, the duck is better left to those with zhong kou wei (hardcore taste), but is still appetizing.
Varenna takes special pride in its flambeed dishes. The grilled shrimp in butter and parsley (RMB58) and capelin fish in butter (RMB35), scented with a chargrilled aroma, are as sweet as they are fresh, with the butter contributing to a rich aftertaste.
Though it commands a high price, the grade A5 wagyu (RMB535) flaunts an exceptional cut of imported Japanese beef. Pair the juicy meat with a bowl of black truffle soup (RMB35) for a lip-smacking repast.
In addition to French cuisine, Varenna has added an Arabic touch to its menu. If you’re counting calories, try the hearty chicken shawarma plate (RMB48). Served with house mayo, this traditional taco satisfies without stuffing.
Joining the ranks of Guangzhou’s craft beer brewers, Varenna doesn’t hesitate to recommend its latest creations. The lychee ale (RMB48), with an alcohol content of 6.2 percent, is a must-try. Although labeled ‘ale,’ this bitter beer has more in common with Indian pale ale. For a less dramatic but equally smooth brew, the mandarin IPA (RMB48) boasts notes of mandarin orange that will have you dreaming of open skies. At 5 percent alcohol, it’s well worth a stein – or three.
Already making a name for itself after only a month in business, Varenna is taking advantage of the quaint, cultured streets of Liwan to house exquisite French and Arab cuisines. And just like that, international eats, craft beer and diverse clientele are mingling in a land previously left to tradition.
Price: RMB110
Who’s going: Arabs, curious Liwan locals
Good for: Classy date nights, craft IPAs
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