There’s a certain burden of expectation on a steakhouse called The MEAT. It’s name that carries with it a promise of carnivorous delights, and here from the outset it is evident that an incredible amount of thought, effort and passion has gone into the art of the steak.
Executive Chef Otto Goh gets to grips with a 1.8 kilo Longjiang Tomahawk
That passion is personified by Executive Chef Otto Goh who has dedicated his professional life to sourcing and serving the finest cuts of beef – ever since the Kerry Hotel opened its doors some 14 years ago and he was given the brief to deliver world-class steakhouse dining to the venerable citizens of Shanghai.
The first sight to grab your attention as you walk through the door is the glass frontage of The MEAT’s dry aging chamber; a veritable trophy cabinet hung with succulent cuts – the promise of things to come.
The MEAT proudly sources its beef from the north of China, where cows of venerable Japanese Kobe lineage – stretching back some 2,000 years – graze in the pastures of Heilongjiang Province.
These bovine are treated to a rich diet of five types of grains, beer, and are even massaged daily. All of which gives The MEAT’s marquee Longjing Wagyu its exceptional flavor and tenderness.
Most of the flesh from these pampered beasts goes back to its ancestral homeland, exported to fine dining establishments in Japan, but Chef Goh has leveraged his guanxi to secure a reliable supply of these rarified cuts straight into his restaurant’s meat locker.
Here, steaks are cooked in a wood-fired oven, stacked high with cherry wood; the high temperatures ensure evenness of cooking and give the cut a mouthwatering sear.
After resting, the meat is basted in beef fat to add richness of flavor, then – in a final flourish – blowtorched table-side.
The result is a perfectly caramelized crust, sealing in the juices and enhancing each bite with a wonderfully savory depth.
The standout amongst the array of premium cuts is the Longjiang Tomahawk – 1.8 kilos of finest bone-in Kobe ribeye, dry-aged for a couple of weeks and then given The MEAT’s signature cooking treatment.
The dry-aging process intensifies the flavor, and breaks down connective tissues, so inside that beautiful sear is a tender buttery core with a complex nutty richness.
It’s good… very good.
There are plenty of surf options to go with your turf, including oysters and lobster. The Crab Thermidor makes a grand entrance.
A foot-long snow crab leg is enveloped in golden, melted cheese, draped over wasabi fish roe mayo and white crab meat which flakes delicately from the shell.
The sides, far from being the supporting cast, are stars in their own right. Check out how good the bread alone looks...
Amongst other highlights is the ‘Rocket’ Mac & Cheese – rotund tubes of rigatoni pasta injected with a luxurious three cheese sauce, morsels of umami pancetta, and served facing skyward.
It’s generously topped with cheddar and mozzarella, before being given a blast in that wood fired oven until the cheese oozes invitingly.
Bucket Prawns is the chef’s take on a classic prawn cocktail – plump crustaceans cooked to precisely 68 degrees Celsius, then served chilled over ice, and served alongside a moreish tomato, horseradish and Tabasco sauce.
Their flesh is delightfully firm, delivering a subtle snap with each bite.
Truffle Fries are crispy, cooked in duck fat for extra oomph.
There’s the chef’s own signature Warm Potato Salad.
And even a stellar Fried Rice, flecked with flakes of crab and Iberico ham.
The dessert selection is short but thoughtful. Amongst it the Magic Fire – a triangular Napoleon pastry which is brought to your table... and then ignited in front of your very eyes.
No excuses for anyone to leave the table anything less than brim full – and fully entertained – here.
As for the pricing, it’s a pleasant surprise for a high-end Shanghai steakhouse, with steaks starting at under RMB200. And portions are generous, so a few dishes go a long way.
That said, there’s plenty you’ll want to try, so bring the family or a gang of friends.
In the end, The MEAT delivers on its bold promise, standing tall as a testament to the art of steakhouse dining, a promise of dedication to quality, and a genuine appreciation of the art of steak cooking.
Meat-lovers be prepared to be tempted back again and again – after all, steak like this lingers long in the memory.
CNY Tomahawk Offer
Make a reservation on (86 21) 6169 8886
The MEAT, The Kerry Hotel, 1388 Huamu Lu, by Fangdian Lu, Pudong District 花木路1388号, 近芳甸路
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