By Stephen George and Rachel Zhang
Of all the potential marketing strategies available to new restaurants – especially those opening on Sanlitun’s Dirty Bar Street, home to such celebrated establishments as Pure Girl Bar and Mojito Man (specialty: RMB15 mojitos) – affixing the favored phrase of China’s official government spokesperson above your property has got to rank among the strangest. Or the most inspired, depending on your target audience.
The pithily-titled “Diaoyu Islands Have Been China’s Inherent Territory” is owned and operated by 50-something Wang Hongyuan. Described by a neighboring vendor as a “warm-hearted, occasionally violent patriot,” Wang has been selling seafood snacks in Sanlitun Bar Street for over a decade.
His stall has paraded variations on the current Japanese-baiting banner for several years, though this latest sign, erected earlier this summer, marks the first time it has appeared in English. We thought we’d drop by to find out what prompted its arrival.
“I’m not that concerned about income because I’m rich enough already,” says Wang, who, after hesitating for some time, eventually decides to answer our questions. Pulling out a pack of cigarettes and inviting us to join him, he continues: “I’m concerned about national pride and how people view this issue. We are Chinese, you know?”
Wang, who’s dressed in a dark green military-style uniform and black combat boots, tells us that the idea for the sign belongs to a patriotic group of students, who persuade him to produce a new version each summer. “We didn’t even have a sign, or a name originally,” he says, with a chuckle.
So what about this summer’s English-friendly sign – has it been good for business? “A lot of people take pictures of the sign. It definitely attracts people. Though, to tell you the truth, most people don’t pay too much attention to it, especially late at night – they just want to eat barbecue and drink beer.”
Wang, who mentions repeatedly that he is a loyal and proud patriot, appears taken aback when we ask whether he’d be okay serving Japanese customers. “Of course!” he roars. “Everyone is welcome here. Except for Abe [Shinzo, Japanese Prime Minister].”
As the night wears on, we notice an increase in [mostly young, predominantly Chinese] customers. By 9pm, every chair around Wang’s small stand is taken. So what do young patriots like to eat, we wonder? “Our most popular dish is fried clam (RMB30 for two people), though we also sell a lot of barbecue – things like squid, and chuan’r. On Wang’s insistence, we try the clam – which turns out to be surprisingly good.
“All the fish and seafood is fresh from Dalian,” he tells us, proudly. “We’re very careful about the fish we sell. I used to work in the fish business… I know what’s good.”
Has anyone ever objected to the sign? “Actually, yes…” begins Wang, lighting another cigarette. “Several months after I put it up, some local police came to warn me that I might create trouble. They told me that it’s too bold and would invite danger. They said that Japanese people might come and feel offended or even start a fight.” What did he say in response, we ask? “I told them that I love my country, and I’m not taking it down,” he says.
“Besides, several days later, a woman turned up claiming to be a lawyer and promised to talk with the police – one of the students must have contacted her. She told me that the sign was in no way offensive and it shouldn’t be banned. It must have worked, because the police never came back.”
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