It’s no secret that fusion concepts are abound in this city’s wide-ranging gastronomic universe, and while we’re always up for inventive combinations, many restaurants run the danger of putting novelty before flavor and texture. Pachapapi, Beijing’s one and only Peruvian restaurant, is a rare exception: It’s not a fusion restaurant by choice, it’s a fusion restaurant by definition.
Thanks to Peru’s biodiversity and unique history of conquest and migration, the country’s resulting kaleidoscopic cuisine stands well on its own, mixing elements of Chinese, Japanese, African and Italian gastronomy. If you’re not too familiar, we don’t blame you. Despite the New York Times’ confident announcement that Peruvian food was “taking over the world” back in 1999, it has yet to achieve a more prominent distinction outside gourmet food circles, where the ubiquitous Mexican and Argentinian counterparts still largely monopolize Latin cuisine.
That’s where Pachapapi comes in. After a bumpy start as Buena Onda, followed by Pachakutiq, Pachapapi has found a more permanent home in Xinyuanli – right by culinary celebrities Bottega and Boxing Cat – where we now have the chance to get an authentic taste of Peruvian fare in the capital.
As we enter, we’re met with an explosion of neon colors: The walls are covered in flashy posters, graffiti and traditional embroidery, evoking the vibrant atmosphere of the streets of Lima.
We’re told by our very eager waiter that Peru’s essential food is the potato and that the best way to taste the starchy staple is the Causa Lima Style (RMB50). Indeed, the mashed yellow potato enveloping a mixture of eggs, tuna, squid and avocado is a delightful starter. Then comes the national dish – the ceviche, or a tangy raw fish salad cured with citrus juice and served cold – quite possibly the entire reason we came here. Pachapapi whips up the zesty and refreshing delicacy with seabass, potatoes, corn, lime, chili and coriander (RMB108), though they also offer other varieties such as the Pacha, with squid (RMB125) and the Tropical, with golden berries (RMB90) – all prepared fresh and with a punch of spice.
The dishes come fast and in sizeable portions, with stories attached. We enjoy the Chifa (RMB108), a Peruvian-Cantonese take on fried egg noodles – influenced by the large population of Chinese migrants who settled in Peru – along with the Lomo Saltado (RMB98), grilled meat flavored with coriander and onion and served with a side of fried potatoes. For those craving more crossover concepts, opt for their large selection of sushi. We choose the beef tenderloin roll with red pepper and onion (RMB58), an unusual but satisfying twist.
Drinks are also a real treat here: The Pisco (RMB78) is strong and sweetened with notes of tropical fruit flavors such as mangos, golden berries and passionfruit while the cinnamon-infused Chilcano (RMB78) is subtle yet satisfying.
With every sip, the lively atmosphere of Pachapapi grows louder and everyone seems to join in on the festive mood. (OK, maybe we've just had too many pisco sours.)
As we finish off our meals, we feel as though we've fed both our bellies and our brains. Turns out, you don’t have to travel far to get a taste of Peru's melting pot of flavors.
[Images via Pachapapi]
See a listing for Pachapapi and read more Beijing Bar & Restaurant Reviews
0 User Comments