We’re suckers for Thai food. It doesn’t have to be extraordinary – see last month’s review ‘Amazing Thai (FYI That’s Its Name, Not Our Verdict)’ – but it should still pack a punch. And new Thai-koo Li North (heh) restaurant Klerm does just that.
Located in the space once occupied by Chiang Mai-style restaurant Cacha Cacha, Klerm has a lot in common with its predecessor – which makes sense considering half of the management team is the same. Like Cacha Cacha, Klerm eschews the traditional Thai aesthetic for a more ostentatiously hip look. Colors are bright and splashed throughout the restaurant’s otherwise industrial interior. Keen observers may even notice a familiar-looking elephant artwork decorating one the walls, a hangover from the Cacha Cacha days.
However, unlike its former tenant, Klerm serves Thai food in general, rather than strictly Northern Thai cuisine. This serves the restaurant well, with a host of classics and more obscure dishes ensuring the spot remains accessible to all.
The green curry with chicken (RMB78) is a rich and vibrant take on a dish that, in the wrong hands, can often slide into mediocre territory. Klerm’s version is a stellar rendition, our only complaint being: More please. For its riotous combination of textures and flavors, we love the papaya salad (RMB57). A mountain of crispy pigskin, fresh apple and beansprouts with shredded papaya and liberal amounts of chili – it’s pretty spicy. Which is where the Thai tea (RMB34) comes in handy, or, a cocktail (Klerm also has a spiffy island bar). But, as our visit falls during lunchtime and we are very professional, we skip the alcohol.
Still, we leave quite satisfied, which is exactly what Klerm wants. But what does it mean? Despite sounding like the name of a cleaning product, we’re told on good authority (i.e. the restaurant owner and another Thai friend) that the word ‘klerm’ actually describes the happy feeling one has after ‘getting high.’ Indeed.
See a listing for Klerm and read more Beijing Restaurant Reviews.
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