‘Revolution’ may be too strong a word. But there’s certainly something afoot along Sanlitun’s great north-south divide.
Until recently, dining options below Gongti Beilu were outnumbered and outclassed by those above. The north had Taikoo Li, Shimao Department Store and Nali Patio. The south – while not without its gems – was lumbered with office blocks, mediocre buskers and another struggling SOHO.
Regrettably, the buskers remain. But otherwise this is an area transformed. Hell, even the SOHO is coming to life.
For this, credit must go to the new InterContinental and its tenants, Mercedes and the Topwin Center. They have realigned the power balance of Beijing’s most cosmopolitan locale. And now the hotel looks to further upset the old order with an iconoclastic swipe at Nali Patio’s Spanish food monopoly.
Sacrilege, you may cry. But the InterContinental’s third-floor restaurant, Top Tapas, is a genuine contender; a higher-end offering of small bites and hearty mains, complete with the lofty view one now expects in south Sanlitun. Sure, there is a hint of casual here (you can dine on a sofa, after all). But these tapas also come with all the sleek and shine of a new international hotel.
Opposite the smart bronze bar at the entrance, a charcuterie station obliges us to start with cold cuts, featuring two varieties of ham (Ibérico and Parma) and two of salami (Napoli and Milano), alongside bresaola, sun-dried tomatoes and the works (RMB149 for one person, RMB223 for two). These are fine imports, certainly. But what of the chef’s own creations?
Well, the tapas menu favors focus over breadth. It centers on croquettes (RMB66-RMB90), terrines (RMB69-RMB106) and a selection of ornate bread snacks marked ‘Crusty & Tender.’ Toppings on the latter hint at the class of cuisine on offer – think mushroom ragout with black truffle (RMB78), tuna belly tartar and oyster mayo (RMB113) and smoked eggplant with sea urchin (RMB93). By and large, these bold combinations work excellently. The tapas here are creative and far more filling than their delicate presentation would suggest.
OK, so ‘revolution’ was too strong a word. But Sanlitun is evolving. And if you want good Spanish food, then it’s time to try your luck on the other side of the lukou.
See a listing for Top Tapas.
Read more Beijing Restaurant Reviews.
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