Shenzhen Restaurant Review: Kokoni

By Phoebe Kut, August 6, 2019

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The Place

Fresh sushi may be hard to come by in China, but once you step inside Kokoni, be prepared to embark on a top culinary adventure. Upon your arrival, gracious hosts cheerfully usher you in, channeling the hustle and bustle of hearty Tokyo establishments. 

Image courtesy of Kokoni

Ingredients are flown in fresh from Japan daily and prepared under the expertise of Chef Yamada, who strictly follows the spirit of true kaiseki cuisine. 

The Food

Kokoni offers three carefully curated set menus: kaiseki (RMB1,800), an omakase option (RMB980) and a teppanyaki (RMB980) option. We opted for the nine-course kaiseki option for a full ride of the Japanese gastronomic experience. 

The meal started off with a beautifully plated medley of seasonal savory tastes and textures from both land and sea. These little bites were a perfect introduction to the evening – we were particularly smitten by the grilled eel and the baked whelk dressed in rich herb butter. Next, the teppanyaki soup was concocted right before our eyes after it arrived at the table. Wrapped in a transparent cooking film, the soup is cooked directly on top of the teppan, which allows all the seafood flavors to fully meld (apparently this retains the nutritional value of the ingredients!). 

Image courtesy of Kokoni

From the large sashimi platter, the fatty tuna (otoro) stood out as an absolutely melt-in-your-mouth cut of goodness. The showstopper, lobster sashimi, had a delicate, sweet flavor and was well complemented with freshly grated wasabi. 

The Vibe

Image courtesy of Kokoni

A laid-back and luxurious atmosphere is what you can expect at this intimate modern Japanese eatery. Although Kokoni’s set meals may be on the pricey end, the quality of the ingredients used and the delicious creations they serve can be justified for a special occasion or a lavish night out. 

Price: RMB980
Who’s going: sashimi lovers, Japanese food aficionados
Good for: fresh sashimi and sushi, Wagyu, teppanyaki
Nearest metro: Dengliang (Exit A), 10 minutes’ walk

Open daily, 5.30pm-10.30pm. See listing for Kokoni.

[Cover image by Tia Weng/That’s]

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