The Place
Oggi Enoteca – the latest in a line starting from Guangzhou – is a destination all its own in the area near UpperHills mall. Indeed, besides Muji Hotel and the Neighborhood Earth exhibit, there are few other draws. But after success in Shekou, Oggi bets that Futian tastes will savor its authentic Italian cuisine and extensive list of wines. (None from China, at least not yet.)
Guests are greeted with one of Oggi’s abundant wine 'cellars,' the dough-swirling maestros by the pizza oven, a well-stocked bar of brass and wood and the Deco-ish open dining room seating 96, all the more expansive with its mirrors and glass. Andrea Bocelli and other crooners invite guests to sit back for a culinary journey across Italy.
Image via Oggi Enoteca
The Food
Salads run classic, with Gorgonzola and candied walnut (RMB58) improved by cubes of firm beet root and perfectly-ripe mango. Manager Alessandro Petrini – a student of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust – serves as sommelier for curious diners and recommends a glass of Italy’s Castel Firmian Chardonnay (RMB55 per glass) for bright fruit notes without extra sweetness.
Brightness is the watchword here, from the delicate red veins of the startlingly-sour amaranth microherbs to the garnish of dried tomato.
Image via Oggi Enoteca
Exquisite calamari (RMB78) arrives in a sea of brilliant pea purée, a drizzle of red sauce and sprinkle of rough black olive. The flesh is like firm pasta stuffed with a rich, tender meal of bread, cheese and tentacle. In the style of his native Abruzzo, Chef Giuseppe di Silvestro reduces the shellfish with red wine, but Alessandro pairs a tart, aromatic Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio (RMB70) with this dignified antipasti.
Pasta, of course, is where Chef Giuseppe and Oggi shine, with a wondrous, handmade bite to the expert parppardelle. The saffron-yellow sauce shines against black garlic confit and slices of porcini with the texture of ripe apple. A fruity Negramaro (RMB55) is recommended: not too sweet and not too strong.
Images via Oggi Enoteca
Grass-fed Australian ribeye (RMB288) receives the same perfect sear as the best steakhouses: just salt, pepper and olive oil against tender, marbled meat. Enjoy it on its own (medium rare) or with addictive béarnaise, mushroom white sauce and infused olive oil. With perfect little pillows of frites and a glass of Chianti (RMB65), it’s a generous meal.
The Vibe
It’s a friendly, modern feel inside, with well-trained waitstaff learning the wine menu and confident in their English. Families, friends, date-night couples and any traveler nostalgic for the taste of authentic Italy will find a welcome meal in this still-developing corner of Shenzhen.
Price: RMB150-500
Who’s going: fine dining dates, fans of authentic Italian fare
Good for: pasta and antipasti
Metro: Lianhua North (Exit A2), 21 minutes
See listing for Oggi Enoteca.
[Top image via Oggi Enoteca]
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