The Place
Long before the steel-framed heart of Shenzhen arose, food and family thrived in villages that trace the river to the sea. Many are now mere memory, but Niu Hu village has emerged as an art-infused gem for Shenzheners seeking a different side of the city.
Near Aohu Gallery and a new sculpture-adorned riverwalk, Art+Canteen is one of the rare finds within Longhua New District that earns four stars from diners. You’re unlikely to stumble upon it, so aim for the gallery and a short walk north.
The Food
The white fish (RMB108) is a best seller, with a Sichuan pepper coating and a heat that builds as you crunch into broth-soaked baby lotus root. It’s good clean fish with few bones and a refreshing lemon infusion to balance that broth.
Fried rice (RMB46) features crisp kernels of corn, cubes of carrot with just enough bite, chives sliced fine, clean plump shrimp and tender earthy chestnuts. Salad (RMB45) is modern, with quinoa, thin slices of red cabbage and a fat-rich dressing that slides between the dew drops of crisp greens.
New Zealand lamb chops (RMB98) arrive in three attractive cuts, seared and coated in spices familiar to any chuan’r shop. They’re only marred a bit by the abundance of cumin – better reserved for hiding inferior meats – and the habit of cooking meats longer than necessary. Ask for medium rare. Insist, if you must.
Drinks favor tea, but also feature Baodenburg beer (RMB45/500 milliliters) and decent wine by the bottle (RMB198). Desserts are a caramel-stewed egg (RMB25, out of stock when we visited) or charming glutinous rice balls (RMB18).
The Vibe
The feel is art gallery-adjacent: there’s striking art in each room of the refurbished Hakka-style family compound. The owners display creative whimsy and elegance in their decorations, creating a very new urban village feel, inviting the rest of Shenzhen to come up and see what else is possible.
Price: RMB200-400
Who’s going: art village daytrippers, locals in the know
Good for: elegant entrees, creative dates over wine
Nearest metro: Qinghu (Exit D) 29 minute drive
See listing for Art + Canteen.
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