Stroll around the corner of Tairan Liu Lu and you’ll stumble across a blue British callbox. That’s odd. Step inside and you’ll find… a telephone. But with a press of the red button, a secret door pops open and you’re traveling through time to a Chinese vision of 1920s America.
It’s bigger inside, a bit, and the interior of The Loops is curated to peak Prohibition: Tommy guns, sepia photos of rum-runners and gangsters, an old-timey bike and a wrought-iron chandelier. Exposed brick and overstuffed leather armchairs maximize the speakeasy feel – nice when tucked away in an alcove, but low and awkward at the bar.
The trio behind the bar includes Ilya, fresh from Minsk. How did he end up in Shenzhen? “I don’t know!” he laughs. Probably stepped into the callbox then – vworp vworp vworp – and showed up here.
His fellow bartender Richard wears the tie-and-apron uniform that blends with the scene, and looks just right as he clamors up the metal ladder to reach the whiskies of the top-most shelf, five rows up a wall of spirits, syrups and brilliant amber liquors.
The mixology is patient and artisanal, with a Smoky Old Fashioned (RMB90) served under a dome to contain its namesake and Smoked Negroni (RMB80) delivered as momento mori in glass skulls. A branded coconut atop a misty skull serves as chalice for a rum-and-juice blend that shows great attention to detail.
With an upper floor that seats eight – beside a VIP, BYO-cigar lounge – and room for more downstairs, the newly opened speakeasy is already filling up on weekend nights. If there’s a shortage of space, there’s no shortage of quality ingredients and careful little details. After they settle on the final drink menu and monthly whiskey special, Loops could become your new Chegongmiao favorite.
Price: RMB70-90 per drink
Who’s going: nostalgia buffs, whisky fans, tipplers in the know
Good for: craft cocktails, Prohibition kitsch, evenings out with a few friends
Nearest metro: Chegongmiao Station (Exit C) 11 minutes
See listing for The Loops.
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