The Place
The PAFC Mall, beside Shenzhen’s tallest building, already houses some of the city’s highest-class eateries and Kanpai Classic is most deservedly among that list. The steakhouse arrived after its family of restaurants took over Taiwan and made a name for itself in Shanghai with a Michelin star there. There are already plans to launch another Kanpai Classic in Shenzhen's Nanshan District, but for now diners must seek out the Futian CBD venue for some of the best steak around.
The Food
Australian Wagyu beef, shipped over two chilled weeks, is almost overwhelmingly abundant. A whole page is devoted to raw-beef appetizers; the carpaccio (RMB148, all prices plus 10 percent) is especially good, with Parmesan, onion, light truffle and a barge of salad. Foie gras and beef warship rolls (RMB38), from the extensive range of meat sushi, offer a pocket of rice, wrapped in tender beef and topped with the rich fowl bits. Beef sushi pizza (RMB58) – deep-fried rice beneath slightly spicy fish egg mayo and raw meat – is a completely novel experience.
Sample the bounty with the excellent Ping An Course (RMB480/person), a bevy of beef grilled by staff at the well-ventilated table. Marbled Wagyu is preciously tender, with thin flank steak embracing a bright spring onion sauce while butter and garlic make lean rump wonderfully rich. When there’s barbecue, it's of the very slightly sweet Japanese variety.
The finest beef (RMB200-280/100g) arrives with a flourish of knives and sea salt. But beware: the Chinese custom of charring beef “medium well” is strong here. At these prices, you should savor the Wagyu as rare as you like it.
Lightly rich caramel custard pudding (RMB58) is a lovely end, if you have any room left.
The Vibe
Inside is pure Japan-inflected class, with shelves of fine ingredients and even finer bottles of sake (Masuizuimi, imported from Japan, naturally). The art in the many private rooms strikes a balance between bold novelty and muted tradition, an exquisite venue for any memorable dinner. Just be sure to reserve in advance.
Price: RMB500-1,500
Who’s going: Refined beef-eaters, sake aficionados
Good for: Wagyu beef, barbeque done for you, hushed tones
Nearest metro: Shopping Park (Exit C), 5 minutes
See listing for Kanpai Classic.
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