Despite the name, there’s not a glimpse of skull-and-crossbones nor piracy inside the Jolly Roger. Which is a shame, since history’s most successful pirate is probably Ching Shih, a Cantonese woman who ruled the South China Sea, retiring in 1810 with amnesty and all her loot.
Yet that woman’s disciplined spirit infuses this elegant, approachable establishment from Joanna Guo, a sequel to her initial success in Xiamen. Within the small but welcoming wood-paneled bar is a mellow energy and a cool aesthetic that let us sit and sip long into the night.
Whiskey was the initial focus of the bar, based on market research that pointed Guo to this expat-friendly spot near Sea World. But foreign patrons have been replaced by the up-and-coming Chinese set, who have developed a taste for Jolly Roger’s classy cocktails and high-end spirits like the Singleton 12 (RMB1,280 a bottle, RMB1,980/two).
We found a revelation in Fernet, a refined Italian spirit of myrrh, rhubarb, chamomile, cardamom and aloe. Guo loves it on ice with Coke, but we prefer her more creative cocktails. In the Hanky-Panky (RMB98) it transforms our favorite Negroni into something deeper, with a bright citrus scent and a settled bitterness on the tongue.
Josie, one of the women behind the bar, brings a cultural education to sippers not so familiar with these spirits. For us she mixed a delicious Lost Rosemarry (RMB78) with lemongrass and lime flavors balancing a bloom of rosemary scent, beautifully presented with an old-style cup and metal straw. With impeccable English she converses with customers, enjoying most those who appreciate their drink and work with her to discover new favorites.
With buy-one-get-one offers every day from 10am (!) to 8pm, and a small side room for VIPs to unwind, we expect many sippers will find a new favorite at the Jolly Roger. If it’s not quite perfect – the bathroom is a short walk into the mall and Guo (and guests) smoke inside – it’s a small price to pay for this little treasure.
Price: RMB75-100 per drink
Who’s going: laid-back loungers, experimental tipplers
Good for: classy cocktails, respectable whiskies
Nearest metro: Sea World (Exit A), 6 minutes
Open daily, 10am-2am. See listing for Jolly Roger.
[images via Wikimedia Commons, Jolly Roger, Adam Robbins]
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