Shenzhen craft beer stalwart Taps has made the leap from stylish suds stop to full-on gastropub with its new Coco Park incarnation.
As we walk inside, the iconic metal brewing tanks, housed behind glass, and long, long row of taps immediately catch the eye.
Don’t be deceived, though; it’s not just about the beer. The pub has a wide selection of fusion-y snacks, some of them pretty exotic. While we probably wouldn’t order the brain schnitzel (RMB58) again, the Sichuan-inspired Taps fried chicken (RMB88) is a crowd pleaser, with boneless chunks of meat that send a spicy tingle humming through the taste buds.
Also worth mentioning are the curried falafel tacos (RMB48), one of the few vegetarian offerings. They’re slathered with tangy sauce and served up on miniature green tortillas.
Almost all ingredients, Head Chef Francis Li notes, are homemade. Taps even smokes its own meats, salts, nuts and veggie chips.
Despite the extra care, Li admits that customer response has been polarized. That might be because of the chefs’ focus on light fare rather than full meals. It doesn’t help that the menu has been evolving over the three months since the gastropub opened. Whatever the reason, some love the food at the new Taps, others… don’t.
We fall more on the ‘love’ side. Besides a lone salad, the chow is unapologetically indulgent, and snacks are offered until 1am. Paired with a cold beer, they make for amazing late night munchies.
Of course, the drinks are still the main attraction. We said it before and we’ll say it again: these people know their craft brews. From the mellow Golden Ale (RMB35 for 330 milliliters) to the smooth black Taps stout (RMB50), beer lovers won’t leave disappointed.
The Coco Park brewpub also offers cocktails and even coffee on tap.
The banana split cocktail (RMB48) combines homemade banana rum and chocolate sauce with the Taps stout. It’s as delicious as it sounds, with an almost creamy texture and gentle sweetness. In contrast, the whiskey sour (RMB88) on tap smacks the palate with a refreshing lemony twang.
Outside of alcohol, Taps boasts a low-profile cafe where baristas roast their own beans and serve cold brew nitro coffee (RMB35) from the tap.
It’s like the brewpub itself, full of hidden yet pleasant surprises.
Price: RMB100-150
Who’s going: craft beer enthusiasts, tap-happy drinkers
Good for: high-quality brews, midnight munchies
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