One of the more ‘contemporary’ hotels in Shanghai, The Andaz has always been good at offering dining options that think outside the box. Now it’s their turn to jump into the box –the bento box, if you will. Encapsulated within a steel cocoon seemingly suspended in the middle of the lobby, 88 Sushi Bento Bar is the hotel’s new Japanese dining outfit, headed by genial chef Takayuki Takeda.
It’s worth mentioning that Sushi 88 seems to have had a lot of thought – and money - put into it. The work of designer Yoshifumi Tanaka, details from the blond wood furniture, the utensils and crockery have all been imported from Japan, and the result is a congruous, harmonious dining room that feels special without being stuffy or formal.
It comes as mild surprise that this atmosphere belies 88’s menu, which rather than being an opulent omakase or kaiseki affair, focuses on bento sets and a la carte offerings with ingredients flown in from Japan daily.
Bento sets start at RMB138 for chirashi sushi (five types of sashimi, Japanese rice, miso soup, daily dessert) or “Miyabi” bento (four appetizers, seasonal vegetables, assorted sushi, miso soup, daily dessert) or RMB188 for “Shouka do” bento (four appetizers, premium sushi and sashimi selection, miso soup, daily dessert).
We tried the RMB188 option and were stunned by the quality, if not the size. Highlights included an umami-rich roasted cod, monkfish liver, uni atop snow-white tofu and wedges of tuna, salmon and clam sashimi, above. While delicious, we can imagine more voracious appetites would need a supplement from the a la carte menu, which starts at RMB40 for nigiri pieces by the pair.
It’s fair to say that bento boxes will suffice for lunch. Dinner, meanwhile, might call for something more substantial. See Chef Takayuki Takeda flex his formidable culinary muscles with an elegantly arranged premium sashimi selection (5 types/378RMB), the highlight of which was excellently flavorsome uni and toro (fatty tuna).
Move onto the Chef’s premium sushi selection (12 pieces/RMB358) or the regular selection (12 pieces/RMB298) as an entrée. These prices aren’t cheap (nor should they be, considering the increasing scarcity of sushi ingredients), but the quality is akin to those we’ve had at much pricier omakase sushi restaurants, which charge upwards of RMB1000 per person.
Overall, 88 Sushi Bento Bar is a resounding hit, and one we’re happy to recommend to anyone on the hunt for reasonably priced sushi that doesn’t skimp on quality. While you’re there, try the sparkling sake: ShoChiku Bai(RMB280/300ml. This place is the only we’ve found that stocks it in Shanghai!
Price: RMB138 upward (+15 percent service)
Who’s going: Hotel guests, local office workers
Good for: Lunch, business meetings, dates, casual dinner
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