New restaurant: Four Seasons

By Betty Richardson, January 9, 2015

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Slightly playing second fiddle to the Kerry Center and Réel mall across the road, Crystal Galleria mall is just starting to fill up with an eclectic bunch of restaurants ranging from Vietnamese pho, American diners, soup dumplings, curry and even popcorn. While most of these seem like fairly ubiquitous mall eateries, Four Seasons on level six creates a different impression.

The main reason to visit is the famous roasted duck, the recipe of which is a fiercely guarded secret at the original location in Queensway, London - it’s even been touted as “the best in the world” by The Financial Times newspaper. So we decided to bring along a Hongkonger to see if Four Seasons’ duck is all is quacked up to be.

Spacious, with a distinct 90s vibe and populated by lunching office workers, service is pretty on lock, despite only being open a month. It’s not Din Tai Fung level hospitality, but the staff are welcoming, efficient and some can speak English too.

The menu is populated by typical Hong Kong comfort foods, like sweet ‘n sour pork (RMB78), crispy noodles, signature roasted meats, an entire separate booklet of seafood disheslike crab, abalone and 90s Hong Kong favorite lobster baked with cheese.

As with most Chinese joints, it makes most sense to eat with a group, but here one may also sample several dishes in individual portions. According to our Hong Kong dining partner the celebrated roasted duck (RMB58, individual portion) is unorthodox– roasted traditionally but served basking in a sweet and aromatic soy-based sauce. Despite this, it was still the highlight of our meal, and seems particularly good value when paired with soup, white rice and beverage in the daily lunch sets (RMB48-58).

Other highlights included delicately gingery scallion noodles with strips of BBQ pork (RMB48, pictured above) and crispy little squares of roast pork and goose breast on hash browns (RMB25, below). Ultimately, the food isn’t mark for mark what you’d get traditionally, but by non-Hong Kong standards it’s good, and aptly priced too.  

For dessert, Four Seasons’ specialty is a caramel sugar tower covering deep fried banana slices (RMB58). Ridiculously tall and apparently tricky to make, thousands of sugary shards splinter all over the table - an entertaining if bizarre dish, undoubtedly the bane of the cleaning ayi’s lives.

The team tells us there’s a plan to open a beer garden and seafood barbecue on the adjacent terrace come summertime, which sounds like a homerun. Overall Four Seasons is a relaxed and good value place for casual Hong Kong comfort food, and one we’ll be back to in future.

Price: RMB100 per person, RMB48-78 for lunch sets.

Who’s going: Local office workers.

Good food: Casual eats, lunch.

// See listing here




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