The Place
A play on the onomatopoeic word for sizzling oil-splash (嗞啦 zi la), Shanghai’s first contemporary Northwestern China bistro Cila – or Zila (恣辣) in Chinese, meaning ‘indulge in spice’ – opened earlier this year in the old 404 izakaya space on Wulumuqi Zhong Lu.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Co-founded by Jiangxi-born Executive Chef Mario Chen (previous sous chef at Jean Georges), and siblings Lin Ye and Wen Tao – who grew up in Xian and Gansu, respectively – the restaurant showcases the spice trade routes of Northwest China, from Shaanxi to Ningxia, from Gansu to Xinjiang.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Think a menu chock-full of lamb, noodles, and all the cumin and chili spice, presented in a way that fits the modern-centric Shanghai dining scene – with hints of Western influence, in regards to ingredients and cooking approach.
The Food
Following food research trips to Ningxia, Xian, and Gansu, the team built out a roster of Northwestern China-inspired plates, utilizing local cooking methods, ingredients, chilis, and spices hand-carried directly from farms in the region.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The ultimate menu concept focuses on these regional Chinese flavors, yet presentation is more in line with the trendy eateries that dot the leafy-tree lined streets of Shanghai’s former French Concession.
Wild garlic chives are blitzed into pesto, whipped ricotta acts as a perimeter for desert buckthorn jam, and tempura-fried lamb cartilage is dribbled in an unctuous aioli – representing a creative clash of cultures through flavor and technique.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The restaurant’s signature dish (that garnered an enthusiastic following from the get-go at its debut at last year’s FEASTCON), the Spicy Oil Splashed Noodles (RMB78) see handmade pulled noodle ribbons adorned with a heaping portion of Xibei chili flakes, bean sprouts, spinach, minced pork, and the curious (yet welcome) addition of soft-boiled egg.
The pleasant chew of uneven ridges that only comes from freshly pulled dough is unmatched; each thread lifts with a satisfying tug – a good half-a-meter long – slickly coated in yolk, ensuring a higher density of chili oil adhering to its surface area.
Charcoal Grilled Asparagus with Gansu Chili Sauce (RMB88). Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Comprised of tender leaves and juicy grapes, the Ningxia Cabbage and Sultana Grape Salad (RMB58) is dusted in a homemade Egyptian spice blend and shaved Gran Moravia cheese, tossed with a bright vinaigrette – the acidity drawing diners in for another palate cleansing mouthful.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The expertly springy Lamb Tripe Salad (RMB88) is first sous vide then marinated in aromatic vinegar, before being splashed with hot chili oil – a common finisher known as qiang ban (炝拌) – for an extra nip of heat in Shaanxi region cold dishes.
Gong cai (贡菜), a wild mountain vegetable with a texture akin to crispier celtuce stem, lends a contrasting crunch.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Pulling from his experience at beloved Bund institution Jean Georges, Chef Chen has released his own take on the top-ordered homemade ricotta there.
This Northwestern Chinese rendition of Homemade Ricotta Cheese (RMB68) creates a moat around equally tart and treacly desert buckthorn (沙棘 sha ji) jam dusted with rose salt, best enjoyed slathered across buckwheat crisps (an ancient grain commonly eaten in Shaanxi).
Or, opt for the larger scooping vessel served complimentary to each table – Shaanxi-style shizi mou (石子馍) crackers, also known as pebble bread, as the batter is poured over smooth stones to create a corrugated effect.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Smothered in a thick and nutty sesame paste plus homemade chili oil, the Tofu Skin and Beef Tripe Salad (RMB62) is another must-order cold dish, dusted with peanut crumble.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Soft lamb bones are coated in a tempura-style batter as the Crispy Lamb Cartilage (RMB72), before being flash-fried and sprinkled with cumin, mixed herbs, and a lashing of homemade oil-splash aioli.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Sourced from Ningxia’s Salt Lake, the Charcoal Grilled Ningxia Lamb Chop (RMB145/2 pieces, RMB275/4 pieces) is Cila’s signature main, boasting a less gamy, higher-fat content (and more robust flavored) alternative when compared to its Xinjiang and Mongolian counterparts.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Caked in a myriad of cumin, chili, coriander seed, and fennel seed, the chops are liberally dusted with a high salt-content Gran Moravia cheese, and plated above peppery sautéed Minqin sand chive (沙葱 sha cong) and a fragrant Chinese chive (韭菜 jiu cai) pesto.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
While the majority of the fare is aimed at the regular dinner crowd, beginning at 9pm Cila does serve up a late-night menu of various cuts of beef and lamb, skewered and spiced with vigor, before being charred over open flame.
Expect anything from Lamb Leg with Cumin-Spiced Yogurt (RMB38), Lamb Sirloin (RMB38), Ningxia Lamb Intestine (RMB32), Lamb Heart (RMB32), Lamb Diaphragm (RMB32), and the above pictured Dunhuang Grilled Beef Tendon Skewer (RMB68) with homemade pickled radish and carrots, among others.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Dessert features regional recipes, like Fuping, Shaanxi Dried Persimmon with Homemade Cheese (RMB46) – the most famous persimmon in all of China, coveted for its stickiness owed to higher sugar levels.
Here it's filled with a homemade creamy soft cheese (similar in milkiness to labneh) spiked with flat leaf vanilla and chopped walnuts.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Other whimsical interpretations span Oil Splash Gelato (RMB38) laced with a hint of chili, Rose and Litchi Sorbet (RMB35), and Vanilla Sea Salt Gelato (RMB35).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Following the same ethos as the food, the drinks side of the menu also showcases plays on Northwest China beverages, like the Chinese Jujube Tea (RMB88), a boozy riff on Eight Treasures Tea with red date, longan, jujube, and goji, plus Nordes gin for floral notes and Xifeng (西凤) Shaanxi baijiu.
Shaanxi Baijiu & Gin (RMB88). Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Further aligning with the theme, the majority of the wines on offer hail from China’s famed wine producing region of Ningxia, augmented by a smattering of Burgundies, German whites, plus Italian and Australian varietals.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The team has recently collaborated with several Ningxia-based wineries, not only through selling their boutique wine offerings to restaurant patrons, but also to release special edition wines, only available to Cila guests.
Look out for their latest Xiaopu Winery release coming in late 2025.
The Vibe
With 100 seats across three stories, the design concept – by artist Xu XingXing – and logo pay homage to the Helan Mountains rock paintings, amplified by rugged outdoor elements.
Think lamb skulls embellished with hanging ropes, live-edge wood benches, wall paintings, and a burning charcoal fire aroma pulling the atmosphere cohesively together.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Pride for China’s diverse culinary heritage weaves its way through every component of the restaurant – from dish ideation to ingredients, from cooking techniques to design and décor – coupled with a goal to share the untold stories of Northwest China’s rich and abundant food history.
A journey diners travel through with each course served.
Price: RMB200-400
Who’s Going: Hip locals, well-traveled in China expats, spice addicts
Good For: Exploring contemporary Chinese, learning about regional ingredients, imaginative cocktail and wine pairings
Cila, 122 Wulumuqi South Lu, by Yongjia Lu 乌鲁木齐南路122号, 近永嘉路
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's
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