The Place
Neo bistro and wine bar INT. soft opened earlier this month behind Mikkeller in Jing'an. As the high-end version of the Interval series (INT. is short for Interval) – owned by Hong Kong's Twins Kitchen group (孖人厨房) – INT. is the first of its kind, bringing to Shanghai Chinese flavors and Cantonese cooking techniques, coupled with Italian undertones (plus natural wines).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Underneath the Twins Kitchen group umbrella (founded by brothers Joshua and Caleb Ng in 2010) there are six brands, including the Interval series of Italian restaurants, dotted throughout malls and shopping centers across Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.
The group also works to connect food and urban experiences – through design concepts and culinary culture – with pop-ups and partnerships across recognized brands like AirBnb, Philips, Ethos and Stack.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Their first venture outside of Hong Kong sees masterminds Joshua Ng and Chef Sean Bai take inspiration from a four-hands collaboration between Ng and Hong Kong’s The Chairman’s (#23 on World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022, #5 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022) Chef Danny Yip.
The two worked for weeks, combining Italian and Cantonese flavors to create modern Asian-infused dishes, and the collaboration event served as a jumping off point for the entire menu that can be found now at INT. right here in Jing’an.
And the name? It all ties into the laid-back, friendly atmosphere – a place you can look forward to visiting for an interval – or break. It provides an escape from the humdrum of everyday life.
The Food
The 23-item menu sees a myriad of cooking techniques that span East to West – from Western-style sous-vide, charcoal grilling, pickling and traditional Cantonese broth-making – to honor the almost fully locally-sourced roster of ingredients.
While the venue is branded as having “Italian DNA” that aligns with the rest of the Interval restaurants in Hong Kong, we didn’t totally feel that part; it’s more contemporary Chinese fusion, heavier on the Chinese than the fusion. Less of a menu issue, more of a branding issue.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Appetizers begin with the Cantonese alternative to an Italian beef carpaccio, a clean Abalone Carpaccio (RMB98) sprinkled with a garlic vinaigrette made with fried minced garlic and chilis.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Eighteen-year aged Shaoxing wine jellies bounce atop a centimeter-thick Goose Terrine (RMB108), accompanied by pleats of Chinese-style, salt-pickled daikon and lavash crisps.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Alternating spears of sliced okra, marinated eggplant and bamboo shoots are sheathed in shaved fennel and drizzled with a zippy ginger sesame vinaigrette as the Seasonal Salad (RMB68). Our main gripe – the price for some conventional veggies, a shortfall we notice throughout the menu.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A Hong Kong classic, and an equal favorite among us diners, the Deep-fried Bombay Fish (RMB98) is coated in an effortlessly light tempura-esque batter, flecked with seaweed powder.
Regardless of upbringing, food culture, or flavor preference, there is an undeniable universal truth in one’s love for salty, crispy, melty, fried goodness – that is this dish.
Grilled Chicken Skewer (RMB48), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A plate that curiously (and pleasantly) tastes like Thanksgiving, the local Shanghai Grilled Bamboo Shoots (RMB68) boast a crunchy exterior yet give way to a soft poached interior – almost meaty – soaking in a creamy bath of Yunnan ham sauce.
Standout in flavor and ingredient pairing, our only pitfall was in the portion. However, since our visit, the venue has modified the dish, doubling the bamboo stalks to balance the dish's value, ensuring it will be one we order time again.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Chongming Grilled Pigeon (RMB128) is coated in a duo of black and lip-tingling Sichuan peppercorns, mellowed by a buttery pan-fry with thyme and garlic, and a final grill sear.
The breast and thigh are paired with a lemon vinaigrette-soaked butter lettuce.
Slow-cooked Two Point Black Pork Ribs with pineapple and homemade teriyaki (RMB178), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Bouncy and gummy, like Korean tteokbokki, the Pesto Jiangxi Rice Penne (RMB88) is where the menu begins to nod towards Italy, sprinkled with toasted pine nuts and shaving of fresh parm.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
There are also two 6-inch pizzas: a Two Point Black Pork & Chaozhou Marinated Vegetable Pizza (RMB98) – made with scallion pesto, fermented daikon, and chopped roasted pork rib...
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
... and a Chinese Toon Pizza (RMB78) – melted mozzarella topped with the spring shoots and leaves that grow on a Chinese Mahogany tree species, most noted for its pungent flavor that can be described as anything from beef and onions to fermented chives and mustard greens.
While this duo of ‘zas is exactly what we had in mind when we were told to expect Italian-Chinese fusion, the culinary blend abruptly ends there, and we were left wondering why we are throwing down almost 100 kuai for a few bites of pizza.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The wine program is a culmination of co-owner Josh’s passion for low intervention, natural and Old World Italian and French wines, one that has developed over the last decade, compiling stories and bottles from all the global wine trade shows and boutique wineries he has visited.
There are 60-80 unique labels on offer, going for RMB78-118 a glass and RMB438-688 a bottle.
The Vibe
The design is eclectic – warm, low lighting, stacked wooden logs contrasted against frosted glass, ceramic tiles, and stainless-steel detailing – ideal for a low-key date night.
Small features – like a decorative stone from Joshua’s favorite winemaker, Corentin Houillon, as the focal point of the wine cellar – add personal touches to this cozy, 30-seater.
Image courtesy of INT.
Image courtesy of INT.
Be aware that some portions are on the small side for what you pay, and that actual execution, at times, results in tasty albeit unremarkable plates. But, we still commend the venue for exploring what "contemporary Chinese" can mean, a developing category in the dining scene that honors local products over imported ones and plays with the melding of legacy Chinese heritage dishes coupled with international influence – a culinary movement that exemplifies what Shanghai is.
Price: RMB300-600
Who’s Going: Curious wine world folk; the Jing’an contingency; those familiar with the Hong Kong Interval venues
Good For: Contemporary Chinese snacking; low-key date nights; being seen in Shanghai’s most happening of areas
INT., Room 114, Bldg. 9, No. 60, Lane 273 Jiaozhou Lu, by Wuding Lu, 胶州路273弄60号114室, 近武定路.
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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