On days like this, you can hear winter's last dying breath fading as spring peeks her floral-covered head out, beckoning the sun to shine a little brighter, the birds to sing a little louder, and Shanghai to finally wake the f*ck up.
Hibernation time is over; no more excuses. Shanghai's F&B scene is busting out its A-game, bringing forth all the ideas that have been lurking in the trenches these last few years due to COVID.
Everyone's got a new menu, a new concept, a new chef to trial. And after living at a snail's pace lately, Shanghai is ready to spread those wings and soar. Let's see what you got.
Check out Part 1 here and Part 2 here.
Tacolicious
It’s not earth shattering news that Tacolicious makes the epitome of a damn great taco – living up to the restaurant’s cheeky tagline: ‘Making Tacos Great Again.’
Now, co-owners Logan Brouse, Saira Shahzad and Thijs Oomens are at it again, this time with new taco flavors, Mexican pizzas, creamy queso fundido, and – no surprise here – more cocktails.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Beginning with a must-order starter, the Queso Fundido (RMB95/meat, RMB90/vegetarian) sees a moat of more than 500 grams of cheddar, mozzarella and parmesan cheese acting as a melty perimeter for your choice of meat, a hefty scoop of pico de gallo and cascabel pepper for added kick.
We highly suggest going for the updated birria recipe – one that combines both stewed beef and lamb shreds that get coated in all that cheesy indulgence.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The Tlayuda (RMB80/meat, RMB75/vegetarian) is *spoiler alert* That’s Shanghai 2022 Food & Drink Awards Chef of the Year winner Thijs Oomens’ take on a Mexican pizza, one that features a shmear of refried beans, avocado, cherry tomatoes, jalapeños, pico de gallo salsa, and a generous sprinkling of mozzarella and cheddar, all atop a plancha-toasted 12-inch flour tortilla with your choice of meat.
Like you would even think to consider anything else, the slow-roasted brisket pizza topper is a must; the first time Tacolicious is bringing back that legendary brisket since Tacolicious Xuhui was forced to closed in 2021.
This fatty cut of beef is first slow-roasted then smoked, resulting in meaty chunks that range from succulent to juicy; from crunchy to melting. And the brisket can be added to any taco, burrito and quesadilla as well.
The Chili Relleno (RMB50), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Adding to the fresh seafood lineup, the Octopus Ceviche (RMB65) sits atop a mango curry seasoned with house masala mix.
A hit of citrus, a crunch from pickled beetroot and a sour zing from tiny beads of popping finger lime make this not-so-customary ceviche a solid 10.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
It wouldn’t be Tacolicious if there weren’t a few new taco filling flavors (also available in burrito and quesadilla form), and this season the name of the game is Nopales – a veg-friendly offering of pan-fried cactus leaves topped with egg, creamy feta (that mimics queso fresco), onions and pico...
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
... the Lengua – nearly spreadable beef tongue cubes, finished with a tangy honey rum chipotle BBQ sauce and fiery salsa verde...
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
... and the Brazilian-style Seafood Stew – a coconut creamy blend of Dover sole, shrimp and octopus that arrives with an extra cupful of the curry-like broth for dipping or straight shooting if you so please.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A nod to the Tex-Mex style build-your-own fajitas, Tacolicious is now offering some upgraded sides for mix and match. From Mexican Fried Rice (RMB30) with peppers and onions...
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
... to vegan-friendly Refried Beans (RMB30), we love the idea of combining these with an order of tortillas or chips for a full meal.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
And don’t skip Chef Thijs’ Chili Cook-Off award-winning secret recipe for Chili con Carne (RMB40) – one that packs a serious spicy, smoky punch.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Tacolicious is also offering a few new deals – like the Tacolicious Express (RMB50), a weekday kebab lunch set available from 11am-2pm that includes your choice of meat – birria, chicken asado, al pastor, or beans & cheese – wrapped in a tortilla with lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and pickled beetroot, and served with a salad and fries.
A righteous homemade toum – Lebanese garlic sauce – and a fruity-meets-spicy scotch bonnet pepper sauce are served on the side, for all your dipping needs.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
In addition to probably the best free flow brunch deal in town – four hours for just RMB150, including Corona, pilsner, Mexican and Moscow mules, palomas, frozen margaritas and G&Ts – brunch also has some new sweet offerings, specifically the Pancakes (RMB50).
Perfectly classic in every way, they satiate that morning sweet tooth.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
On the cocktails front, barman extraordinaire Logan Brouse is shaking up some refreshing blends, namely the Texas Tea (RMB65, RMB50 Happy Hour) featuring red tea-infused vodka and fresh lemonade...
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
... or the darker alternative Black Lemonade (RMB65), where tea is swapped out for activated charcoal.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The Sunburnt Señorita (RMB65) wills summer to arrive early with a blend of silver tequila, Beneva mezcal, fresh watermelon and lime, while the Magic Mojito (RMB65) has us ready for patio season with the addition of Campari.
Image courtesy of Tacolicious
Speaking of patios, get ready for many a terrace BBQ to come from the Tacolicious team this year, coupled with their Sunday Aperol Spritz deal – just RMB35 from 3-8pm.
Tacolicious, Room 104-105, 34 Yuyao Lu, by Xikang Lu 余姚路34号1幢104-105室, 近西康路.
Atelier Cocktail Eatery
Fumin Lu's Atelier Cocktail Eatery has rebranded, with a fully updated cocktail and food menu. Owner Daniel An is bringing global tastes to the forefront with his world tour-themed cocktail lineup that takes curious drinkers from Ireland to Russia, from Thailand to the Caribbean... all in one night.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Beginning with the Hokkaido Martini (RMB88), sake acts as the base spirit, stirred with Fernet, ginger liqueur and vermouth for a clean sip. The addition of a pickled Japanese ginger garnish adds a veritable pop of brightness.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Heading next to Spain, One Night in Ibiza (RMB88) highlights Spain’s alcoholic beverage of choice – fino sherry – balanced by lemon, aloe and grapefruit bitters, finished with a savory Jamon Iberico crisp.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Tabasco brings the heat to the reimagined Cartel’s Paloma (RMB88), rimmed with lime salt...
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
... while, on the other side of the globe, the Tom Yum Colada (RMB88) is all about the coconuts – infused in rum and blended into a purée, paired with tom yum spices and pineapple.
This tiki-meets-Thailand libation – a favorite from the now shuttered Atelier on Julu Lu – was thankfully resurrected here.
Drunk Beauty (RMB88), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The food roster has also received a facelift, focusing now on Asian fusion, with dishes like wasabi aioli and tree tomato sauce-laden diced Sweet and Sour Razor Clams (RMB98), interspersed with chopped shrimp and glistening salmon roe beads.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
We’ve had our fair share of tartares, but the DIY presentation of the Beef Tartar (RMB98) is more than a gimmicky attention grabber; the tart plum jelly compliments the shiso leaf’s earthy grassiness, while the surprising introduction of kimchi adds a fermented, sour funk.
A raw egg yolk brings forth a creamy element of fat we would ubiquitously see as the inclusion of mayonnaise.
Once mixed, the tartar is meant to be spooned atop puffed rice seaweed crackers that add a balance of umami, imparting a tried-and-true surf'n'turf profile.
READ MORE: Bargain, Balanced, Ballin’: 21 Tartares For All Budgets
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The Seafood Poke (RMB98) is just as much about playing with your food; a tableside toss of diced scallops, tuna, salmon, mango, avocado and tomato – slick with wasabi dressing – accompanied by crisp prawn crackers for scooping.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
For more substantial offerings, the Spicy Beef with Tortilla (RMB98) centers around melt-in-your-mouth braised brisket, studded with pickled jalapeño rings, presented alongside a thick curry paste, fresh herbs and ruffled warm tortillas.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A play on the Taiwanese guabao, the Duck Leg Confit (RMB68) is served with fluffy charcoal mantou buns, meant to be stuffed to the brim with fall-apart-tender duck, a zippy coleslaw and a lashing of tangy papaya paste.
Grilled Tom Yum Chicken (RMB98), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Charmoula-marinated tiger fish is roasted as the Paper Bag Fish (RMB168) with beech and button mushrooms, resulting in a crispy exterior and buttery flesh, speckled with African spices.
Unwrapped upon serving, the sizzling skin provides a crackly canvas for sopping up more of the simmering broth.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A buzz word-heavy dish, the Foie Gras Truffle Rice (RMB78) mellows these lux ingredients with a splash of rice wine vinegar and sweet soy sauce; the black truffle mainly coming through in an airy foam that hovers like a cloud over the steamed kernels.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Mustard mayo is drizzled atop crisp bamboo shoots, romaine lettuce, sharp endive and finished with Jamon Iberico chips as the Bamboo Salad (RMB55).
Lava Cake (RMB48), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The waistline-conscious Seasonal Fruit Tart (RMB38) sees a cheesecake-like paste piped atop a sundried persimmon disc; a texture that emulates a sticky mochi cake. A smattering of seasonal fruits and nuts adorn the top.
Atelier Cocktail Eatery, 291 Fumin Lu, by Changle Lu 富民路291号，近长乐路.
READ MORE: 2 New Winter Menus: Italo Trattoria & Sui Tang Li
READ MORE: 2 New Winter Menus: New Wave by Da Vittorio & PHÉNIX
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[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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