That winter chill has set in, and there’s no escaping it 'til spring graces us with her presence. These next few months are going to be all about the hearty, homey dishes that keep the cold from seeping into our bones. Thankfully, we’ve got a handful of new warming winter menus to get you through the iciest of months.
Check out Part 1 here.
New Wave by Da Vittorio
New Wave by Da Vittorio is the innovative sister restaurant to three Michelin-starred Da Vittorio, a premium Italian venue hailing from Bergamo.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
New Wave, as the name suggests, is all about taking traditional Italian dishes and reimagining them in a more whimsical, modern way – one that matches the UCCA Edge contemporary art museum in which this restaurant resides.
Homemade focaccia, Bergamo polenta breadstick, Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Executive Chef Francesco Bonvini and Chef de Cuisine Nicoló Rotella are presenting diners with new seasonal dishes, like Amberjack “Aio Ojo e Peperoncino” (RMB178), a starter named after a Roman style pasta made with garlic, oil and chili.
Here, however, the noodles are swapped out for tataki-style Japanese yellowtail, brushed with a homemade garlic mayonnaise and dusted with mild chili powder and garlic crisps. The plump slabs of hamachi are flanked by an herbaceous clam and parsley soup, as bright as it is fresh.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Pumpkin is served three ways with the Chicken Liver Pâté (RMB158) – thin curling ribbons of pumpkin carpaccio interlaced with sour pumpkin cream and sprinkled with a pumpkin seed crumble.
Candied ginger helps to further cut through the pâté’s velvety richness.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A generous shmear across the caramelized honey brioche toast proffered alongside the plate makes for a bite that is both dramatic in heft and flavor.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The Bluefin Tuna Carpaccio (RMB198) is speckled with bottarga, bringing an additional layer of salinity to the dish that is further accentuated by beads of salmon roe.
The fish rests on a crunchy artichoke salad, drizzled with a demurely sweet Moscato wine reduction.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A traditional ravioli from Bergamo that is filled with beef, raisin and sage, the Casoncelli (RMB238) at New Wave reconfigures said dish, with the plump raisins reduced into a sauce imparting a grape-like sweetness.
Sage oil is then drizzled over the bowl of expertly pleated pancetta crumble-coated dumplings.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A prudent companion for Pigeon Risotto (RMB368), the addition of pumpkin purée adds further lushness, reducing the amount of butter needed so as not to make diners feel overly full.
The Chongming pigeon breast is first dipped in bees wax – lending a floral fragrance to the meat – then dry-aged and pan-fried.
The star of the dish, however, is the vin brulè reduction, inspired by a type of Piedmont mulled wine spiced with anise, cinnamon and black pepper and stewed with warming fruits like apple and pear.
The sauce is stirred with beef jus and then dribbled atop the perfectly al dente risotto, juxtaposed against crunchy spheres of pickled pumpkin.
Roasted Australian M5 Beef Sirloin (RMB498) “arrosto al latte” and potatoes four ways, Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Wrapped in scallions, and baked in a black pepper flaky bread crust for added smokiness, the Toothfish “In Crosta di Pane” (RMB438) is a play on Chinese scallion fish head, but prepared using Italian cooking techniques.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
After being unsheathed from the crust, the fish is placed on a barley risotto studded with dusky morel mushrooms, flaking off in buttery hunks between a parsley foam and springy snails.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The audacity to serve not one, not two, not five but nine servings of ice cream and gelato as the Gelato Selection (RMB128) is a bold move.
But, when you make each individual flavor in house using only natural ingredients sourced directly from the same farmer near Chengdu – then you have every right to go big.
The roster currently spans pineapple, pumpkin, kiwi, raspberry, mango, pistachio, honey melon, hazelnut and chocolate tonka bean. Pick your poison.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Other dessert offerings are equally bright, like the Campari Orange (RMB168) – showcasing the multipurpose Hainan green orange with an orange and Campari jam lurking inside a plush cake, finished with an orange and Campari jelly, chocolate dipped orange peel and an orange juice granita made using liquid nitrogen to resemble Dippin’ Dots.
Each bite is a sleight of bitterness rounded by refreshingly tart citrus.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A booming crackle of cacao nibs break open, revealing an unexpected but welcomed milky mint sorbet, mint jelly and chocolate cream atop a chocolate-coated biscuit as the After Eight (RMB168) – an elevated version of the timeless pairing of chocolate and mint.
The wine program, curated by Head Sommelier Camilla Mora, is a labor of love; compiled in a novel-sized tome to introduce viticulture as a type of art, further mirroring the restaurant’s space in the art museum.
The lineup sees 80% Italian wines, hand selected from unique wineries across the nation, with a strong emphasis on northern Italy, paying homage to her homeland of Piedmont.
New Wave by Da Vittorio, 3/F, UCCA Edge, Xizang Bei Lu, by Qufu Lu 西藏北路88号UCCAEdge三层.
PHÉNIX
Located on Level 2 of The PuLi Hotel and Spa overlooking Jing’an Park, PHÉNIX features intuitive French cuisine with the finest and freshest quality ingredients – embodying Executive Chef Ugo Rinaldo’s philosophy of simplicity and authenticity.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The dishes are ideal for pairing with their upgraded wine selection, one that focuses heavily on Burgundy wines.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Starting with Le Caviar (RMB888), Japanese Hamachi is accented by aromatic hazelnut oil and Perseus No. 2 superior oscietra caviar from Sichuan.
The caviar has been matured three times longer than most, resulting in a more robust flavor that is mellowed by Peruvian tiger’s milk – a blend of lemon, ginger, cucumber and fish sauce.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Pleats of Hokkaido scallop are charcoal-grilled and fanned out as La Saint-Jacques de la Baie D’Hokkaido (RMB308).
Thin twirls of radish add crunch, while Yunnan tree tomatoes are reduced with grape seed oil into a vibrantly orange jus for a sour, passion fruit-esque finish.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Confit for 21 days, Le Foie Gras (RMB318) is smooth without feeling overly slick, dusted with Sarawak black peppercorn and crushed Sicilian pistachios, accompanied by figs three ways – freshly sliced, puréed and baked into a crisp.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A tribute to drunken hairy crab, the Cuisses de Grenouilles & Morilles (RMB428) sees frog legs stewed in a Jura French yellow wine and butter sauce, paired with spongy morels, spring peas and sage.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Chef Ugo’s pièce de résistance, La Crevette Sauvage Carabinero (RMB888), honors the Spanish carabinero red prawn in every form possible.
First, a large prawn is grilled over litchi wood, the smokiness balancing the prawn’s natural sweetness.
Next, a confit prawn is matched with citrus skin, Sarawak black pepper, rosemary and thyme, then topped with a powder made from the prawn shells, crispy prawn legs and sliced Guandong Buddha’s hand, an overly aromatic citrus fruit.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
As a final compliment, there is a third presentation of prawn tartar, made tableside with Buddha’s hand zest.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Dry-aged Australian Le Boeuf Wagyu M9 (RMB988) commands no further introduction; as one of the highest grades of meat globally, it can stand up on its own as a prized plate.
Seared for that expected crackly crust, the fat-laden meat is served with artichokes, asparagus spears and a barbajuan – a deep-fried spinach and ricotta stuffed ravioli commonly found in the French Riviera.
L’Agneau en Trois Façons (RMB528) lamb saddle, lamb rack, lamb tenderloin, petits-farcis vegetables, Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
One of the highest quality pigeons sourced from China, Le Pigeon (RMB568) hails from Zhongshan in Guangdong.
The breast is rolled around a succulent dab of foie gras then charcoal-grilled before being smoked under a glass cloche with rosemary, served alongside a Xinjiang plum sauce.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The famed cheese trolley has made its way onto PHÉNIX’s brunch, lunch and dinner menu, with an expansive spread of more than 15 imported cheeses.
Guests can conclude their meal – or take a savory break before sweets – with Les Fromages Servis au Plateau (RMB288 for 3 choices, RMB388 for 5 choices) including candied nuts, brandied cherries and honey.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Chef Ugo’s passion is in pastry, so one must never skip the works of art that are called dessert at PHÉNIX.
Beginning with a textbook Paris-Brest et Retour (RMB128), effortlessly light puff choux is piped with praline cream and embossed with caramelized Piedmont hazelnuts.
Le Fruits Rouges (RMB128) Thin berry tart, vanilla cream, blackcurrant sorbet, extra virgin olive oil, Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A chocolate lovers dream, Le Chocolat (RMB188) presents chocolate mousse, ganache, sabayon, sorbet and sauce in a myriad of chocolate textures and flavors, crowned with caramel crisps and sesame praline.
Petit Fours, Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
PHÉNIX, 2/F, 1 Changde Lu, by Yanan Zhong Lu 常德路1号2楼, 近延安中路.
READ MORE: 2 New Winter Menus: Italo Trattoria & Sui Tang Li
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[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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