The Place
You may have heard of Country Road before – a Colombian restaurant on Wuding Lu with a low profile but some pretty standout arepas. In fact, it was one of the only places in the city to get decent arepas. And then suddenly it fell off the map.
Kind of.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Actually, it closed for a temporary facelift and has now reopened as the rebranded BoCa – a casual Latin American, split-level restaurant that involves shisha upstairs and a full-on dance party with live DJs on the weekends downstairs.
Patacones (RMB38) fried green plantains with hogao sauce, Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Tradition, culture, rhythm and South American flavors represent BoCa, a double entendre of a name that combines the first letters of the capital cities of Bogotá (Colombia) and Caracas (Venezuela) – where the managing owners, David Pastor and Reyna Vieira, were born and raised – to create the Spanish word for ‘mouth.’
Which is fitting, as it is next to impossible to not stuff your chops full of arepas and curl that kisser into a smile.
The Food
Let’s pause for a quick second to chat through the glory that is an arepa. This South American staple, most commonly found in Colombia and Venezuela, are grilled corn (maize) dough ‘pockets’ that sit evenly at the cross-section of a tortilla and a pancake.
Crispy, grilled edges give way to cushiony insides hugging infinite permutations of stewed beef, spicy pork, fried plantains, buttery eggs, salty cheese, spiced beans, soft avocado, pulled chicken and literally anything and everything in between.
Eaten for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks, side dishes or late night, arepas embody the saying ‘good things come in small packages.’
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Ok, back to BoCa – it serves a lot of the comfort foods that the owners grew up enjoying, with flavors curated and managed by Reyna.
As a vegetarian, she ensures the menu has a wide selection of both vegetarian and vegan items, with many of the plates customizable to meet dietary needs. Plus, arepas are gluten free.
We’re no dieticians, but that means some level of healthy, right? We’ll order another three, please.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Starters begin with crunchy, fried Empanadas (RMB48/4 pieces) replete with your choice of cheese, chicken or beef.
Then there are the Tequeños (RMB45/4 pieces), Venezuela’s answer to the mozzarella stick, bursting with cheese, chocolate or a mix of guava and cheese.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Of course, the crème de la crème are the arepas – and BoCa covers all bases with 20 flavor combinations.
On top of the arepas, all fillings can alternatively be loaded inside cachapas (arepa de chócolo) made from freshly ground corn, cheese, salt and a touch of the good stuff, butter and sugar – all grilled together inside an iron plate.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Our go-to arepa, the Reina Pepiada (RMB55) is crammed with a shredded chicken salad, tossed with mashed avocado instead of mayo, and flanked by even more sliced avocado. It’s refreshing, light and worth the green shmear of cream that spreads from cheek to cheek across your boca.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A close runner up, the Pabellón (RMB55), is similarly conventional – for a good reason – with grilled shredded beef, black beans, fried green plantains and salted cheese. Down-to-earth flavors equally dramatic in heft and history.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
With 120 grams of gooey mozzarella forming the base, the Arepa de Chócolo (RMB58) is a sensory work of art that is both nostalgic and inventive. While these cachapas are common roadside snacks in Venezuela – simply eaten with cheese or bacon – you’ll be hard pressed to find one stuffed with so many imaginative fillings. But the fillings are what make them a beast of a meal, only conquerable by those with hulk-level appetites.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Outside of the more traditional options, there are ‘fusion arepas’ like the Brava (RMB62) – with Spanish Serrano ham, Spanish Iberico cheese, grilled peppers and arugula; the Falafel (RMB55) – a play on the Middle Eastern palate with tabouli salad, tahini and arugula; and the Roasted Pork (RMB55) – American Tex-Mex BBQ style with coleslaw.
And if you still can’t decide, go for the Arepa Tasting Platter (RMB108) – a selection of five mini arepas with different fillings.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The menu also takes pit stops in Venezuela with offerings like Asado Negro (RMB108) – three-hour roasted eye round beef with Venezuelan red wine sauce, mashed potatoes and fried plantains; and Pabellón Criollo (RMB88) – the same filling as the Pabellón arepa but with rice in place of the arepa shell.
Pork Tenderloin (RMB68), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Moving along the coast to Colombia, you’ll find Bandeja Paisa (RMB128) and Bistec A Caballo (RMB118). And finally, for all the Peruvians missing home, order up a plate of the Lomo Saltado (RMB118) – a beef stir-fry of sorts, loaded with onions, tomatoes and peppers, flanked by fries, plantains, rice and a fried egg.
In a nutshell, come hungry.
All of the main cuts (like picanha, tenderloin, chicken breast, pork tenderloin, etc.) come with your choice of two sides (or three during lunchtime) that span patacónes, yuca frita, tajadas, mashed or roasted potatoes, red or black beans, lentils, rice, fries or salad.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
If all that wasn’t enough, there’s Tex-Mex – nachos, tacos, burritos, fajitas, quesadillas, salad bowls and the like, all with your choice of protein (including vegan-friendly Zrou options), and brunch is set to launch soon.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
On the drinks front, it’s all about the beach vibes – pina colada, mojito, sex on the beach, tropical dream, sweet sun and coconut paradise, to name but a few. Plus, the classics like Pisco Sour (RMB68) and Basil Smash (RMB68) as well as regular mixers, wine and beer.
The Vibe
Indigenous Colombian art decorates the walls upstairs, with a floral-focused mural to come soon on the first level. Shifting from sunny café vibes in the afternoon to bouncing LED lights that change color to the beat of the music in the evening, it’s an all-in-one space, and a welcome addition to Jing’an, halfway between Up and Revolucion.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
On a happening weekend, over 100 people can get down on the dance floor, which kicks off around 10pm. The plan is to extend the dancing hours until 3-4am, with late night munchies offerings. Think sloppy tacos, loaded nachos and overflowing arepas to soak up all the tequila shots.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
BoCa fills the void that was created when Malabar transformed into the upscale Japanese-Spanish hybrid Sakaba Malabar. It’s laid back, friendly, with good Latin American eats, good company and good music for shaking your culo.
¡Vamos!
Price: RMB65-175
Who’s Going: Colombians, Venezuelans, Peruvians, basically all the spicy Latin Americans
Good For: Alternatives to tacos, alternatives to La Social/Revolucion, alternatives to anything that doesn’t involve an excessive amount of cheese
See a listing for BoCa. Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s]
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