The Place
At 7pm on a Tuesday evening, after spending RMB45 for taxi fare to Hongqiao, we arrived at Phoenix Sushi flustered and ravenous. A calm kimono-clad server quickly brought over steaming hot towels and peach-scented oolong tea, leaving us relaxed and ready to watch Dong Wanhu, the smilingly unflappable chef-owner, assemble plates of sushi while we were seated at the elegantly spare 10-seater sushi bar.
Since opening three months ago, Phoenix Sushi has already earned a loyal following who regularly claim one of 20 available seats on any given night. Arriving without a reservation is pointless, and aiming for a weeknight booking is your best shot.
You might wonder how this omakase joint, led by a chef from Anhui, has become so popular. First of all, Chef Dong has worked in Japanese restaurants since 2003, most notably as an apprentice at Kenji Naramoto’s eponymous upscale sushi restaurant on Yongjia Lu. The other reason is that the most expensive set at Sushi Phoenix costs just RMB398, which is a bargain compared to similar establishments around town.
The Food
Phoenix has two menus (RMB298 and RMB398), and the cheaper set omits the sashimi courses but you get eight pieces of nigiri instead of six. There’s also an a la carte list, but you’ll need to be able to read Chinese or Japanese to order from it.
The premium RMB398 option opens with a trio of chilled appetizers such as Snails and Pickled Lotus Root before you are presented with a teapot. You are directed to sample a cup of pure Clam Broth before enjoying the rest of the pot with a squeeze of lime and then moving on to the sashimi.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Of the five types of raw fish served, the highlights are a plump, Sweet Shrimp punctuated by a dollop of luscious sea urchin, as well as a slab of Chu-toro (medium fatty tuna) that leaves our soy sauce glistening with its oil upon dipping.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The parade of raw fish is interspersed with hot dishes such as a steamed Savory Egg Custard (chawanmushi) with crab, before the arrival of a chilled Giant Oyster topped with a punchy yuzu vinegar jelly.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Next up is a home-style dish that you won’t see at the more upscale places in Shanghai – a whole Seabream Head cooked in a flavorful sauce made with soy, sake, mirin, sugar and a hint of ginger. Since the fish is served twice (in sushi and sashimi form) throughout our meal, this head-to-tailfin approach is a deliciously clever way to minimize food waste.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
When the sushi started rolling out, the first thing we noticed was the striking dark color of the rice due to the use of red vinegar, a hallmark of Edo-style preparation. The flavors are traditional, but Dong uses various accompaniments to create a thrilling variety of taste and texture. Everything from the freshly grated wasabi (dabbed on all the nigiri) to the house-made ginger slices show attention to the smallest details.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Sea bream is torched then gently brushed with lemon zest, radish, scallions, soy, vinegar and yuzu.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Arctic Clam is dressed with a lick of soy and some chili powder that brings the sweetness of the seafood into sharp focus, resulting in one of the supplest bites we’ve ever had.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Other standouts include Soy Marinated Tuna sprinkled with katsuobushi (dried skipjack tuna) flakes and a dab of yuzu kosho (citrus chili paste) and a pile of amber-hued, Sake-cured Salmon Roe precariously perched upon a mound of rice.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The last course, a simple but tasty milky Custard with Berries, ends the meal on a high note.
Food Verdict: 2.5/3
The Vibe
There are plenty of amazing omakase experiences in Shanghai, often at lofty sushi temples with prices to match. Phoenix is an exemplary example of our city’s sparsely populated middle ground, featuring thoughtful combinations, well-seasoned rice and skilled knife work while being affordable enough for a monthly - rather than yearly - indulgence.
We all know that sushi shouldn’t come cheap, but it can be less expensive if you are willing to compromise. Who cares if only some of the fish is flown in directly from Japan? At this cost, we don’t mind at all.
Vibe Verdict: 1.5/2
Total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB300-600 per person
Who's going: locals and Japanese sushi aficionados
Good for: affordable omakase and intimate dates
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
Leave Your Review
Have you been to Phoenix Sushi? Post your review here for a chance to win a Saucepan voucher.
See a listing for Phoenix Sushi. Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews
0 User Comments