We are always on the lookout for bar concepts that break the typical Shanghai mold, so the offbeat appearance of Mad Lab on Wuding Lu immediately intrigued. The bohemian atmosphere of the former Café des Stagiaires has been scrubbed away in favor of a kitschy steampunk aesthetic.
The addition of a conveyor belt is a cool idea for serving bar snacks. Expect fusion interpretations of sushi mixed with more European tapas-style fare. Nothing will blow you away, but it is certainly worth the price of RMB129 for the all-you-can-eat deal. As the kitchen prepares to close nightly, they begin offering single plates at RMB19 – a clever tactic to minimize waste.
Falling in line with their wacky laboratory theme, the cocktail selection consists of five ‘experiments.’ While we like adventurous drinking, we have to say that descriptors like ‘girls like it’ and ‘why peach is tea’ with no other information make ordering more challenging than expected.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The only clues offered in our choice of Experiment #2 (‘Coffee Always Goes First’) were that it consists of coffee and vodka, and what you end up with is a very boozy and slightly tart foam-topped drink. If pressed, we’d label it a variation on a sour. So what’s actually in the drink, you might wonder? We tried to find out from the bartender, but he declined to reveal its ingredients. (Bad luck if you happen to have an allergy to one of its mysterious contents.)
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Experiment #4, or ‘Strawberry is the Best Friend of Coconut,’ features gin, strawberry and coconut but the fruity combination is too sweet for our tastes. Divided equally into two glasses – freeze-dried berry tops one while shredded coconut accents the other – it wins points for its cool presentation.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Served in a tea set, ‘Why Peach is Tea’ was the most impressive drink of the night. Again, we have no idea what’s in it, but it resembles a very nice sour plum wine.
For this team, who’s also behind Barbarian, focusing on flavors rather than brands is nothing new. While we can respect that, the staff needs to provide more guidance to help guests choose their drinks.
The good news, however, is that all drinks are RMB40, and they offer deals for sets of three (RMB105) and six drinks (RMB200). These drink sets encourage experimentation, but if you are a particular drinker that must have a sidecar or martini just so, you'll likely be disappointed by their offerings. If sweet and fruity concoctions are your jam, Mad Lab’s the place for you.
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
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