Located in one of Shanghai’s new design-driven hotels, The Sukhothai Shanghai, The ZUK Bar is one of the most ambitious hotel cocktail bars that we have come across. First of all, they’ve recruited Vicenzo Pagliara, formerly of London’s well-regarded The Connaught Bar, as their head of mixology.
Pagiliara’s cocktail program revolves around four natural elements – Oaks, Rocks, Flora and Water. The menu layout makes selecting according to personal preference a breeze. For example, Rocks beverages are mineral-forward, sharp and complex, while the Flora category is herbaceous, fresh and light.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Named according to the nature theme, Maple (RMB95) is a drink from the Flora section, and Ossidiana (RMB105) from the Rocks. The latter is a complex take on a negroni – sans gin – whereby burnt wood is used to shock and oxidize the Mancino Ambrato vermouth. Then it’s mixed with house-made passionfruit-mango vinegar and Campari, and left to age in a clay pot. Served with a slice of passionfruit leather and chocolate shaped like a vanilla bean, and the result is effortlessly delicious and pretty.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Photo by Cristina Ng/That's
We usually avoid sweet drinks, but Forget Me Not (RMB105) is tempered by a bright blend of citric and malic acid. With a pleasing aftertaste that exudes notes of fresh lychee, we’ll never forget this Pineau des Charentes and St. Germain-based beauty. Simply served with a clear sphere of ice and a flower, the minimalist presentation echoes the aesthetic of the Neri&Hu-designed property.
While having a couple of drinks here might run as much as a nice dinner, we don’t leave feeling burned, even when a 10 percent service and six percent VAT are added to the bill. Besides, most nice cocktails in Shanghai are running upwards of RMB80 these days, and only a few places are putting as much effort as The Zuk into infusing, distilling and fermenting their ingredients.
Focusing on what’s inside rather than doubling down on showy garnishes is a bold move in an image-obsessed city like Shanghai. For us, this earnest approach makes the singly decorated, well-balanced cocktails that much more intriguing.
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
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