The Place
Shanghai offers many cuisines and Apollo on Anfu Lu is adding to the choices with a menu of Latin-inspired creations prepared by Danish chef Frederik Rasmussen. Comparisons will be drawn to sister restaurant, Pelikan, but the concept feels unique enough to stand on its own.
The two-story space that once housed Amokka offers an intimate vibe, and if you enjoy interacting with the chef, the best seats are upstairs.
The Food
The menu is neatly divided into ‘snack,’ ‘oyster,’ ‘the sea,’ ‘from the land’ and ‘treats’. A pair of diners will probably fill up on six to eight dishes.
Mini chestnut tart
The snack section is particularly fun. Two mini chestnut tarts (RMB28) appear and bewilder with their gorgeous appearance and made us wonder if we had accidently ordered dessert. Upon tasting, its surprising combination of chestnut and peach makes for a very appetizing bite. It’s hard to dislike fried, crispy pork skin (RMB32) and their rendition with paprika emulsion is no exception.
Crispy pork skin
As Rasmussen does interesting things with vegetables, this is a restaurant where carnivores, omnivores and herbivores can eat together quite well. The sofrito (RMB42), a classic sauce, would shock a Latin American with its appearance, but we like the way the ingredients (cauliflower, romenesco, asparagus and celery) in the sauce are also presented individually on top of the dish. It is far from classic, a theme that repeats itself often at Apollo, but it tastes good.
One of the only dishes that did not do it for us was the tamale (RMB38). The addition of polenta, while bold, strays too far from the original.
The seafood dishes fare quite well, too. We love the cured salmon with yoghurt and puffed rice (RMB68), with its nice textures and flavors, but the real stunner is the mussel soup (RMB48). Featuring crunchy tart apple, tapioca and lots of butter, the combination of fruit and seafood comes very nicely together as one. Order one bowl per person, no sharing.
Cured salmon with yoghurt and puffed rice
Mussel soup
Meat lovers will not be let down by the pork neck with pineapple and chili (RMB68), or the beef tenderloin with chimichurri and kale (RMB128). While less inventive than the other parts of the menu, both are very solid plates.
Pork neck
Instead of the brown butter cake with caramel, popcorn and muscovado ice cream (RMB58), we opted for the cilantro, matcha and avocado ice cream (RMB62). While the ingredients seem to have little in common beyond their color, it’s an truly surprising end to a good meal.
Food Verdict: 2.5/3
The Vibe
In terms of service, it was nothing short of friendly and attentive. Apollo is the kind of place where you are equally welcome to chat up the staff or focus your attention on your dining companion. The experience, as with the food, leans more Nordic than Latin, so manage your expectations accordingly.
Vibe Verdict: 1.5/2
Total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB200-500 per person
Who’s going: mostly expats with some curious locals
Good for: dates, cocktails, small bites
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