We suspect that froufrou cocktails in novelty glasses adorned with gimmicky embellishments are enough to illicit a collective eye-roll from the majority of That’s readers, so we’ll cut to the chase and divulge that Healer, a bar from ex-Nest and Kee Club mixologist Phoebe Han, is cut from a different cloth.
The specialty here is a menu of libations that have been crafted with local spirits. And we’re not just talking a splash of Moutai, either. Han’s signature drink, Hossu (RMB98), is a masterful balance of rye whisky, demerara syrup, chocolate bitters and zhuye qingjiu (竹叶青酒). The latter is a light-flavored spirit made with bamboo leaves, barley and sorghum, that sits under the fenjiu (汾酒) umbrella. Produced in Xinghua Village, Fenyang, Shanxi (also Han’s home province), it involves a complicated double fermentation and distillation process to achieve its refined character.
In the Hossu, fenjiu invites a beguiling profile that is tempered by the gentle and malty demerara cane sugar syrup, though truth be told, it is hard work sipping the drink until diluted by the ice, after which it goes down pleasantly.
Han’s ‘Bamboo Forest’ (RMB108) is quaffable from the get-go, combining zhujian jiu (竹简酒), a spirit that is sealed and fermented inside the trunk of a young bamboo, with maraschino cherry liqueur, Lillet Blanc vermouth, cucumber and mint. The crushed ice and fresh ingredients invited a favorable comparison to both a mojito and a Pimm’s Cup.
Unfortunately, classic cocktails come at the expense of these artful local libation; one whisky sour (RMB80) had so much lemon juice and orange zest that it might be more aptly named a whisky battery acid.
Other short fallings include the occasional lengthy wait time for drinks, and a tinny sound system that clatters off the hard acoustic surfaces in the bar, a shame really, because the simple but elegant interiors and relaxed chill hop playlist create an ambiance that rivals other successful local bars. Xingguo Lu’s Bar No. 3 springs to mind.
Overall, Healer does do a commendable job of pioneering a path towards interesting and balanced drinks using artisanal Chinese spirits. With a bit of polish, we think this could represent one of the better place for minded drinkers to take a sip of local booze culture.
Price: drinks from RMB70
Who’s going: young locals, expats
Good for: dates, small groups
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