The Place
A street that bore many afflictions during the great F&B cull of 2016, Yongfu Lu has seen its biggest attractions (Shelter, the taco truck – tragically lost to a street fire – and Bocado) taken away. What remains? Street corner dudes selling Xinjiang oregano (*wink wink*), the Apartment, and new Bombay Bistro: “fine Indian cuisine” in what once was Bocado.
The Food
Back when molecular cuisine was a thing people took seriously, giving Indian food the fine dining treatment entailed a worrying departure from everything that is inherently wonderful about it. Deconstructed biryani, sauces administered in spirals and/or artful smears, flower petals on dhal and lots of other things that beg the question ‘why?’
A lot's changed since the fitful fine dining days of the noughties. Thanks to chefs like Karam Sethi and his groundbreaking Michelin-starred London restaurant Gymkhana, upmarket Indian food now makes use of its storied traditions and charming miniature copper saucepans, rather than awkwardly contorting itself to fit the fine dining mold.
This is good news, because there is no cuisine as luxurious as Indian. Bombay Bistro sort of understands this, thus the menu is peppered 50/50 with traditional-done-well dishes versus new age dry ice gimmicks. Stick with tandoor and mains if you prefer the former; go ahead and knock yourself out with the appetizers if the latter is your cup of masala chai.
Whoever is in charge of said tandoor obviously knows how to use it. Grilled masala prawns (RMB118/6) arrive to the table gorgeously charred yet juicy and springy, a product of expert timing. Zingy mango and pineapple salsa and a verdant hari chutney complete the picture perfect dish.
Lamb rogan josh (RMB118) was a masterful and non-oily affair, possessing both richness and balanced acidity that would give beef bourguignon a run for its money. Coupled with an excellent flatbread basket (RMB78), including malabari paratha, butter naan and tandoori roti (our favorite), it’s hard to ask for a more luxurious Indian experience.
No Indian restaurant worth its ghee is without vegetarian options, but we were slightly let down by the mattar paneer (RMB88), pan-seared curd cheese filled with spicy green peas in a sweet but still good makhani gravy.
More of a disappointment though was that they forgot our South Indian-style chicken cilantro coconut curry (RMB108), and made our Bombay Sour cocktail (RMB65) too sweet. That is, until it transpired they’d mixed up the order and given us a Malibu muddled Shang Hai Ren (RMB65) instead.
Food verdict: 2/3
The Vibe
It goes without saying that service here needs to up its game; even the most moneyed taitai isn't content to pay RMB600 a meal for forgotten curry and Malibu cocktails. And we really do hope they can, because Bombay Bistro is a fine example of Indian cuisine. And besides, the atmosphere is cozy and welcoming, and would make a great place for chic group dinners.
Vibe verdict: 1.5/2
TOTAL VERDICT: 3.5/5
Price: RMB200-300 per person
Who’s going: mainly expats
Good for: groups, Indian dining
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