Words by Kate Toogood, photos by Niki Csanyi
There is something incredibly romantic about a winter with snow. Piles of fluffy drifts, the satisfying crunch of boots walking across a field of whiteness, the sparkle of sun through ice-covered trees. Even if you don’t like the cold, you have to admit that a beautiful winter is a treat for the eyes.
Jilin is one of these romantic places. Located in the northeastern part of China, an easy two-and-a-half-hour flight from Shanghai, the winter is similar to those experienced in Canada. (But don’t panic, it’s not as cold.) Lower humidity means you won’t get chilled to the bones, and it also means proper indoor heating.
What makes Jilin so special is how it creates a winter holiday that’s uniquely Chinese. Follow a day of skiing at a world-class resort with a night relaxing in an outdoor hot spring, fragrant with flowers and jasmine – or spiced with beer, and red wine. Then head for a glorious hour-long massage, and toddle your way back up to your room for an epic night’s sleep. The next day, visit the region’s gorgeous ice forests, spend some time snapping photos and journey on to yet another beautiful resort. How civilized.
With luxury hotels, magical hot springs, amazing temples and museums, Jilin has it all. Yang Andi, Director of the Jilin Provincial Tourism Development Committee, says the province is a feast for the senses, with multicolored scenic areas, enticing smells of delicious food and the choice between the sounds of uniquely beautiful music or the peace and quiet of a relaxing evening. Here’s what to expect.
Let It Snow
Bundle up, because you’ll want to spend most of your time outside. With average temperatures around -13˚C/8˚F (January is the coldest at -17 ˚C/-1˚F), Jilin makes it easy. Schedule a trip around the Changchun Ice & Snow Festival or Changbai Ice & Snow Festival and you won’t be lacking for entertainment.
One of the unique features of this province is the rime, or crystals of ice that form on trees due to the moisture in the air. It’s spectacular enough that BBC Travel devoted an entire article to the phenomenon. There are several places to witness it across the province, each with its own style, so make sure to catch one or two displays.
Even if you don’t know much about Jilin, you’ve probably heard of the Changbaishan. This world-renowned mountain range is host to the beautifully turquoise Heavenly Lake. Make your way through snowy forests and enjoy the amazing view of waterfalls, rime, and sunlight on snowy peaks and the valleys below. (Note that access to Heavenly Lake is blocked when weather is bad, so plan to spend a few days in Changbaishan just in case.)
What would winter be without some snowy activities? Jilin has developed some world-class resorts for skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts with all the amenities of their global counterparts. If you’re new to these sports, there are schools on-site so you can at least try it before beating a hasty retreat to the warmth of the surrounding restaurants.
Food, Glorious Food
You’ll want to leave your bikini body at home. Jilin has its own delicious cuisine, which is influenced by Korean, Manchurian and Mongolian cultures. Bolstered by excellent fishing areas, one of the region’s specialties is chaganhu pangtouyu (꿴맴빤텅庫戴), a meaty, flavorful white fish. Also on the menu is ginseng chicken, the Manchu santaowan (힛敬公) – a meat stew cooked by combining a variety of braised, stewed, fried and baked meats – and the famous fermented cabbage hot pot.
If you’re in the mood for something sweet, their frozen fruit dishes are a must. Look for frozen pomelos, pears or the famous crabapples pierced on a stick and covered in sweet syrup. They may seem like a strange thing to eat when you’re walking around in chilly weather, but the Jilin people believe in using the frigid temperatures to their advantage when creating and preserving dishes, and it works. Delicious and refreshing, snacking on these sweet-and-sour treats make walking around rime-covered forests all the more special.
Cultural Favorites
If your tired bones need a break from the cold outdoors, Jilin has lots of cultural activities to keep you occupied. The unique history of this area means that you can enjoy performances and festivals, visit museums and go on tours created for people to learn more about the cultures of its Korean, Manchu and Mongol inhabitants. Learn a little something at China’s only meteorite museum, or take in a song-and-dance duet performance and a Jilin-style opera show known for its humor and simple props and staging.
What about the Rest of the Year?
If winter truly isn’t your cup of baijiu, not to worry. If you visit Jilin during the warmer months, you can explore the wine and food of the Shengxin Wineries in the Fengman district, or the unique flora and fauna of Songhua Lake Scenic Spot, which is also known as China’s first lake for summer holidays. Or head to Yanji to visit the Liudingshan Buddhist Temple, which houses a stunning 48-meter-high bronze Buddha statue. The people of Jilin are relaxed and happy, and the average temperature in summer is 22˚C/73˚F – it's the perfect place for escaping the heat and frantic pace of Shanghai.
It’s easy to spend a week traipsing around this unique area. According to Ge Tianyu, Operations Director of the Jilin Province Tourism Bureau Information Center, seven days is the optimal length of time to experience everything that Jilin has to offer. You can fly into many of its cities, which are well set up for foreign tourists, regardless of your level of Chinese. Hotels usually have someone who speaks English to help you arrange a car, a meal or other travel needs. Regardless of when you visit Jilin, you’re in for something special.
For more information, visit the official Tourism website.
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