UPDATE: this restaurant is now closed.
The Place
Over the years, we’ve been lucky enough to taste all sorts of exotic cuisines that have entered the city, but never Ecuadorian until we visited Wawamama, a unique little restaurant on Nanjing Xi Lu. It sits in a two-story glass-walled house that has gone through the hands of various owners and now under the control of Ecuadorian chef Miguel Monar, who sets out to put the “ancestral” cuisine of his home country on the table.
The Food
Known for piquant shrimp and fish ceviches, hearty stews, tropical fresh produce and prodigious quantities of plantain, Ecuadorian food is as diverse as the terrain of the country itself. Chef Monar does interesting, modern interpretations that bring select elements of Ecuadorian cooking into his menu.
Patacones con atun especiado y mango (RMB68) is comprised of three pieces of fried green plantain topped with tuna and herb mayonnaise, tomatoes and mango cream. Waffle-like in appearance, the plantains came off dry and flavorless, though at least the tuna mince didn’t let us down. 
Ceviche de camarones ecuatorianos (RMB98) is served with a fancy dry ice effect. Under the illusory smoke hides steamed Ecuadorian shrimps marinated in orange, tomato, mango and passion fruit juice. Though the flavors were bold and juicy, the texture of the shrimps left a lot to be desired, presumably weary from the trans-Pacific journey. 
Larger plates like the corvine frita del mercado central (RMB128) sees a piece of fried batter-coated sea bass atop coconut rice, with a line of shrimp tartar and potato chips sitting aside. Tender and flavorful, the sea bass was fried to the right level of crispiness and the rice was tasty, though for the price we would like to see a larger portion.
More small portions were in store for our aji de carne a la parrilla (RMB158) main, which proved to be a big disappointment. Described on the menu as a ‘grilled sirloin’ (and a Chinese translation of “牛排”, ‘steak’), this turned out to be a plate of non-descript braised beef cubes marinated in a curry-like aji sauce with a hint of cacao. Taste aside, the feeling of being cheated out of steak is never nice, and again we found ourselves longing for a larger portion.
Food Verdict: 1/3
The Vibe
Sleek and modern, the flower-dotted restaurant feels modern and clean, with floor-to-ceiling windows and an outdoor patio. By nightfall, the room turns into a decidedly romantic venue, complete with candles, flowers and dim lighting. From time to time, the smell of new furnishing sneakily wafts into our noses, and we consider the irony of not opening those big, glamorous windows to let a breeze in.
Vibe Verdict: 0.5/1
Value for money
Prime location. Check. Unique theme. Check. Lovely ambiance. Check. Wawamama is full of promise, and is a fresh enough concept to pique the interest of local and expat diners alike. A three-person dinner summed up to RMB550 – not too bad considering the location. If only the food were equally good.
Value for Money: 0.5/1
Total verdict: 2/5
Price: RMB200-300 per person
Who’s going: locals and Ecuadorian expats
Good for: fining dining, special occasions
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