Émigré judgment on new eateries in Beijing often centers on one criterion: authenticity. Never more so than with the ever-increasing number of Mexican joints, with conversation often reverting to an overly-opinionated drone on whether your fajita is genuine Mexican or just a Tex-Mex gringo. Enough of the tedious authenticity debate – it’s either good food, or it’s not.
Take Sand Pebbles in Wudaoying hutong. The meals may not be prepared by a chef born under the sun of the Yucatan Peninsula, but a distinct lack of pretension, coupled with high-quality, reasonably priced Tex-Mex fare has built up a diverse and loyal following. Sand Pebbles’ deserved success has allowed owner and chef Ray Li to expand his business with a second offering on Xingfucun Street, or what some (OK, us) are calling “Craft Beer Street,” due to the sudden influx of upmarket bars selling upmarket beer.
The new west Sanlitun spot El Gran Bocado (“the big bite”) is markedly bigger and more ambitious than Sand Pebbles, with owner Li looking to up his game with a menu offering Tex-Mex classics paired with some more traditional Mexican bites. Two brightly decorated floors and a large, comfortable outdoor seating area mean there’s more of a communal vibe than its Yonghegong counterpart.
The food is firmly on-point, offering a well-balanced mix of favorites, such as the grilled jumbo-shrimp fajitas (RMB128), excellent quesadillas (RMB48) and what, for our money, is the city’s best nacho plate: the beans nachos (RMB40/52).
Moving away from the Tex-Mex, Li has added some lighter, less oily Mexican choices, including the beef tongue tacos (RMB45) and the Caldo-des-Res (beef soup; RMB40). A quite superb blend of warming spices and hearty flavors, this traditional Mexican-style broth is made using tender chunks of choice cuts and vegetables, then slow cooked for up to seven hours – a meal in itself, and perfect for the coming winter.
Another bonus is the addition of Slow Boat on tap – completing the area’s craft beer trinity (alongside nearby Jing A and Great Leap – you can now crawl between all three) and further raising the possibility of our nickname catching on. Try their agave-infused brew (RMB40), a perfect accompaniment to first-rate enchiladas verde (RMB65).
It’s likely to take a while for El Gran Bocado to truly find its footing in its new location and garner a similar following to its well-established sister restaurant. But based on our visit, we’re expecting great things from this modest taqueria – the worm has truly turned.
// Daily 11am-12am. 1/F Just Make Building, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰作大厦1层(No telephone number)
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