We live in an age of luxury where we no longer have to worry about planting crops or the plague, and have evolved into sophisticated (some might say bourgeois) beings who can instead pour our time into honing crafts such as selfie-taking and mixology.
Candor, a new bar on Shaanxi Nan Lu next to fellow cocktail den Flask devotes itself to the latter, headed by experienced mixologist Aaron Feder and his doll-like longterm partner Melody Chen. Together, they make a balanced duo. Chen deals with the business side of things while Feder focuses on creating the drinks and swinging on the center pole every now and then.
When we walked into the grand and opulent space, Feder asks us if he could get us a drink. “Gin and tonic and thanks.” He gives a smirk.
Apparently, gin and tonic is what you order when you don’t trust the bartender. A safe and consistent drink that’ll get the job done. We can’t argue with that. All jokes aside, Mr. Feder knows his stuff and has every ounce, pour, shake down to a precise science. Ordering a gin and tonic at Candor is like going to a Jean Georges restaurant to have a salad. It’d be a damn good salad, but places like these are made for indulgence.
And the ultimate indulgence is Candor’s pièce de résistance, the Ramos Gin Fizz, which takes 20-30 minutes to make (most of which is vigorous shaking) and costs RMB158. We don’t quite understand the mechanics of this specialty cocktail; we know it involves egg whites, gin, and six-person manpower. Once someone places a Ramos order, one of the six lights situated above the bar lights up.
Each of the six bartenders (hence six lights) take a turn at shaking the damn thing. Twenty minutes later, you have a perfectly balanced souffle cocktail hybrid; sweet, floral and worth the wait.
When all six lights are lit, this means that no more Ramos orders will be taken. But you needn’t fret because there are plenty of other drinks just as deliciously well-made (not to mention the Gin and tonic option). The menu is divided into three sections: 'Old School' which are classic cocktails, 'New School' which are Feder’s innovations, and 'Adult Education' which Feder deems as “bullshit cocktails.”
We're not ashamed to say we tried the Mojito, a drink known to induce many an eyeroll from some bartenders.
Feder finds a way to turn this basic minty libation into a science experiment by freezing fresh mint leaves with liquid nitrogen and pummeling them into a fine powder, before sieving through a strainer. The result is profound, with every ounce of minty goodness extracted.
No such trickery is extended to the Moscow Mule, the simple pleasure of which felt like a tall glass of water, but luckily didn't taste like one.
Candor demands a little bit of commitment for a night out. The tufted velvet couches and swanky chandeliers call for heels and dress shirts, on top of paying upwards of RMB88 for booze (RMB68 for wine).
If you're fascinated by mixology or spirits in general, we'd say come on a quiet night, sit at the bar and chew the fat with Feder on his favorite subject. Have him make your favorite drink, or browse through his (actual) granddaddy's heirloom book of cocktails and take your pick.
Alternatively, Candor's also a place to be enjoyed on busy nights, and on our visits, the wait times for drinks were mercifully short (we hope it stays that way). The eighties music videos on rotation do not completely match the Vegas carnival camp vibes, but as long as you’re with your best group of friends (or a stranger taking care of the tab), Candor is a great place to drink.
Price: RMB68-218
Good For: hand-crafted cocktails
Who's going: upscale locals and expats
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