What is ‘omakase’?
Japanese for “I’ll leave it up to you,” omakase sushi is chef’s choice – walk in, sit down and prepare to be taken on a culinary journey by your itamae (sushi chef). There’s no particular set menu, dishes depend on the best catch from the fish auction markets in Japan, which is then flown over to Shanghai post-haste.
Thanks to its close proximity to Japan, like Hong Kong, Shanghai benefits from excellent omakase sushi restaurants, serving exquisite cuts of fish and seafood. Sadly, depleted oceans mean increasing scarcity of fish this quality, so anticipate paying upwards of RMB800 per person.
On the plus side, service at all these establishments are attentive, even elegant at the very best. Furthermore, these omakase sets can stretch into hours – we guarantee you’ll leave feeling full.
1. Sushi Tatsumi (龙海寿司)
Serving primarily a menu of sushi and sashimi courses, as opposed to interspersing with cooked dishes too, Tatsumi is the best value omakase place in Shanghai for sushi lovers. Its convenient location means you needn’t trek into Hongqiao or Gubei for the omakase experience. Our favorite from here is the extra marbled wagyu sashimi wrapped around umami-rich uni (below), but just about everything else is good, and excellent value for money.
Price: RMB850 per person
Who’s going: local sushi lovers
Good for: Sushi only, sashimi, small groups, dates
See a listing for Tatsumi here
ABOVE: Otoro sashimi (supremely fatty tuna belly)
ABOVE: Kanpachi (Amberjack) sashimi
ABOVE: Chawanmushi with mushrooms (steamed egg custard)
ABOVE: Roast mackerel filets with yuzu
ABOVE: Scored ika (squid) nigiri
ABOVE: Amaebi (raw sweet shrimp) nigiri
ABOVE: Torched shiromi (red snapper) sashimi
ABOVE: Japanese Crevalle Jack nigiri
ABOVE: Scored and torched trout nigiri
ABOVE: Iwashi (Sardine) nigiri
ABOVE: Toro nigiri (fatty tuna belly)
ABOVE: Tamago (baked omelet) and unagi (freshwater eel) nigiri
2. Sushi Yizheng (鮨正)
One of our other favorite sushi omakase spots in Shanghai, Yizheng is hidden in plain sight in a commercial building; step inside and be transported straight to Japan in this birch wood panelled, warren-like restaurant. With just eight seats at the main bar, Yizheng serves sets from RMB688-RMB1288. Best value is RMB888, which includes a large sashimi platter, copious sushi courses and premium grilled Wagyu beef too.
Price: RMB888+ per person
Who’s going: well-heeled locals and Japanese expats
Good for: dates, small groups, impress guests
See a listing for Yizheng here
ABOVE: Sashimi platter from the RMB888 set
ABOVE: Sashimi platter from the RMB1288 set
ABOVE: Tiger shrimp, okra and baby vegetables steamed with miso broth
ABOVE: Premium (read: fatty) grilled Wagyu beef
ABOVE: Awabi (abalone) sashimi
ABOVE: Hamachi
ABOVE: Amaebi nigiri (raw sweet shrimp)
ABOVE: Toro nigiri (fatty tuna belly)
ABOVE: Clam nigiri
ABOVE: Uni, minced otoro (supremely fatty tuna) and ikura (salmon roe) over rice.
ABOVE: Miso soup with shrimp head
3. Sushi Naoki (鮨直輝)
Sushi Naoki might be new on the scene, but it’s already making waves amongst Shanghai’s sushi aficionados. Itamae Kevin was the former head chef of esteemed sushi house Maison Asano before branching off to his own venture here.
Having spent the greater part of his life studying his art in Japan, itamae Kevin has a penchant for blowtorching fattier cuts of fish to smoky perfection, often prominently accenting them with yuzu, citrus and wasabi and fresh green onion. Standout dishes are the scored octopus, steamed crab with vinegar jelly, giant shrimp – we could go on, everything here is a cut above the rest.
Elegantly spacious interiors set Sushi Naoki apart, making it suitable for formal occasions when nothing but the best will do, making the 35 minute taxi ride to this Gubei spot well worth the effort.
Price: RMB1200 per person
Who’s going: Japanese and locals gourmands
Good for: special occasions, impress guests, sushi
See a listing for Sushi Naoki here
ABOVE: Fruit salad with minced pine nuts
ABOVE: Torched tai (sea bream) with finely chopped chives
ABOVE: Conch with seasalt and shiso leaf
ABOVE: Torched mackerel
ABOVE: Steamed crab with vinegar jelly and crab fat infused tofu block
ABOVE: Uni
ABOVE: Scored ika nigiri (squid)
ABOVE: Otoro (supremely fatty tuna belly) nigiri. BELOW: Torched aged otoro nigiri
ABOVE: Japanese Crevalle Jack
ABOVE: Torched mackerel
4. Sushi Aoki
Arguably the best omakase (and most expensive) experience in Shanghai, the quality of Aoki’s ingredients are impeccable and second to none. The bounciest, freshest ikura (salmon roe) we’ve tried anywhere in Shanghai. Exquisitely plated, imaginative dishes and meticulously made sushi served (literally) in the palm of Aoki-san’s hand.
Set in what feels like a residential apartment in Jing’an, eating here is like being let in on a big secret on just how good sushi can get in Shanghai.
Price: RMB1,280 - RMB1,580 (Lunch: RMB680-980)
Who’s going: Sushi lovers, local and expats
Good for: impressing guests
See a listing for Aoki here
ABOVE: Separated egg yolk and white topped with caviar, micro-courgette and natto (fermented soybeans)
ABOVE: Ikura (salmon roe) with grated yuzu zest
ABOVE: Torched kurodai (Black sea bream)
ABOVE: Ankimo (monkfish liver) AKA foie gras of the seas
ABOVE: Grilled high grade Wagyu beef.
ABOVE: Crab meat, winter melon, vinegar jelly, tiger shrimp and uni, topped with caviar and gold leaf.
ABOVE: Sanma (Pacific saury) nigiri
ABOVE: Mamakari nigiri (sprat)
ABOVE: Akagai nigiri (Ark shell clam)
How to Book Sushi Restaurants:
Reserve one day in advance (since the fish is ordered from Japan according to bookings). Don’t speak Chinese? Ask a friend to book for you and specify that the diners will be non-Chinese speakers. You are paying a premium at these places, and they aim to be accommodating.
Don’t be afraid to confirm the price per person when booking. Menus are subject to change according to the daily catch.
How To Order:
There are usually no menus, but you may be asked which particular price set you’d prefer: a smaller set (with fewer premium ingredients), a standard and a chef’s special (large and/or with extra premium ingredients).
Before starting, your itamae will ask if there’s anything you don’t eat. Don’t be shy – they want you to enjoy the experience wholeheartedly.
English is limited at many of these places, but no menus means there’s little need for talking. Go in expecting to pay the minimum price listed, plus extra for alcoholic drinks.
Expect 10+ small courses of sashimi, nigiri-zushi (sushi with rice underneath), and perhaps grilled wagyu beef, plus dessert.
Notes on Eating:
Nigiri-zushi (sushi with rice underneath) are ok to eat with your fingers, eat sashimi and everything else with chopsticks.
Gari ginger is eaten as a palate cleanser in between courses, not with the sushi.
Don’t dip the rice part of your nigiri-zushi into the soy sauce. Dip the fish part, and dip it sparingly while you’re at it.
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