What happens when you cross retro videogames with craft cocktails? The answer is Arcade, a bar where you can down high-class tipples in the comfort of your Feiyues and ironic T-shirts. Under the direction of manager Jacob Prain, good drinks are guaranteed. Pairing them with a comfortable atmosphere is a worthy ambition, but the result here seems slightly incongruous.
At first look, Arcade is deconstructed grunge; a bare-bones space where beats emanate from a movable silver DJ pod and bounce off walls of exposed concrete. Across the room from a row of already beaten-in leather couches, there’s a solitary retro Winnitron console housing old school games where teams can fence each other to death or defeat aliens a la Space Invaders.However, a dip into the drink list will knock any dive-bar expectations off the radar.
Bartender CJ, who spent time at Constellation I and el Coctel, has created a slew of complicated cocktails reminiscent of both his former venues. An intriguing 1921 Manhattan (RMB90) is stiff but subtle, considering its base is 1921 Tequila Reposada, while a parmesan-dusted Bloody Cesar (RMB80) is a savory, boozy ode to summer gazpacho. Shiso-jito (RMB80) packs a vegetal and pickled ginger punch while a whimsical, if risky, bourbon and Japanese green tea sour (RMB70) should satisfy any Chinese businessman. To some, this combination of high and low end will be appealing – for others, the prices would warrant a more comfortable setting. There is beer on tap (RMB40-70) you can stick to if money’s tight, and CJ’s custom made shots are a well-priced three for RMB100. Overall though, it feels strange paying top dollar for drinks in a place with the feel of Dada. Then again, it seems to have worked for Craft.
See listing here.
