The doors of Anar on Xingfu Lu may have long been locked due to landlord problems and noise complaints, but the team behind it is back on the Shanghai scene with a new look and feel. Whereas Anar (which, as you no doubt know, means pomegranate in Persian) was a smoky, slightly gaudy and raucous live-music affair, new venue The Fennel Lounge caters to those with more discerning tastes.
Layers of brown brick at the entrance lead people down a passage where you can break left into a stuffy sit-down dinner section or right into the bar. Choose the latter and you’ll find a buttery-lit space punctuated by antique knick-knacks. Elaborate (yet comfortable) chairs sport hemp woven in dream catcher patterns across the back and seat. For drinks, there’s the usual whiskey, gin and vodka-based cocktails (RMB45-75), beer-on-tap (RMB45-55) and wine by the glass (RMB55). To treat yourself, try an elaborate house concoction for RMB78. A Sichuan Bloody Mary boasted huajiao-infused vodka and vibrant tomato soup while the unusual aloe milk with rum was topped with a virtual forest of mint. The viscous texture might be a put-off for some, but the flavors were fresh and well-balanced.
Despite what the waitresses may tell you, it is possible (and advisable) to order food at the bar. French fries (RMB35) come hot and thick-cut with a small side of powerful, garlicky mayonnaise; a sauce so good, you’ll want seconds. Another surprise was the chicken liver pate (RMB48), which comes whipped into a creamy mousse and set over a dark pool of intense onion jam. Spread atop a piece of toast it rivals fine-dining establishments.
If the idea of losing Anar to the craft cocktail and bistro-pub craze brings tears to your eyes, don’t despair. There’s a small section with a stage set aside for live music and movies. Keep an eye out for future events, with open mikes, acoustic guitars, bongo drums and harmonicas sure to feature heavily.
See listing here.
