Located at the end of Anfu Lu, away from Laris’ latest venture, past the Willis fiefdom and just on the other side of Enoterra sits Seasalt, a shoebox-sized wine and tapas joint run by enthusiastic staff; open the door and at least two waiters will come running toward you, grinning ear to ear and eager to help you shed winter layers. Cozy up to one of the six small, two-person tables scattered around the room and they’ll be at your elbow to cater to your every need.
What gets served up is a low-key mish mash of Italian-themed “tapas” (um, isn’t that called antipasti?) and pastas. Start with an Italian tapas mix platter (RMB88) of prosciutto, thick-cut smoked salmon and other savory morsels like smoked eggplant and preserved artichoke hearts. Some bread to mop up with would have been nice, but pairing it with a bubbly glass of Prosecco (RMB38) certainly works. Seasalt salad (RMB38) is a pleasant – if slightly overpriced – bowl of leafy mixed greens and tomatoes, lightly coated with lemon juice and olive oil, and topped with four pungent sheets of parmesan. Also good munching is the deep-fried mixed seafood platter (RMB68) in which rings of tender octopus, butterflied shrimp, broccoli and strips of sweet pepper are wrapped in a puffy, tempura-light batter. Reasonable red and white wines, mostly Italian and Spanish, range from RMB35-48/glass.
Problems arise further into the menu, though. A whole page gets devoted to kebabs, but a foot-long skewer of Italian sausage with smoked cheese and vegetables (RMB55) was disappointing. It wasn’t merely over-salted, but grilled until all juices were lost, so that the meat became the consistency of dry wood. The piece of sliced cheese on top did nothing to help. Fusilli with pork and tomato sauce (RMB58) was another mess, pairing mushy pasta with more dry meat, bound together by a tomato sauce which not only held a tinny, canned flavor but was, once again, over-salted; ironic, considering the establshment's name.
Despite these false steps, Seasalt is not necessarily a place to avoid, merely one to come to for an after-work wind-down or pre-dinner charge up. The pleasant staff and snacks are sure to help you relax – just plan on eating your full meal elsewhere.
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