A breath of French air has blown into the former XY One complex. With Kartel up top, a branch of Patisserie de France next door and La Fourchette taking up the windowed first floor, one gets the impression that this is set to become the new hang out for the surrounding (Gallic-heavy) population. General Manager Franck has teamed up with Peter Gong (of Kathleen’s 5 and Avalon) in the kitchen. Together, they put out straightforward French food with few frills, but the occasional flourish.
There’s a choice of three environments here. The long, welcoming bar is where young trendsters sit sipping on reasonably priced glasses (or bottles) of wine and watching the latest rugby game on a flat-screen TV. After drinks, people can move to the sparse, yet warmly lit back dining room. There they can feast on juicy rounds of suckling pig (RMB150), crowned with crackling and a side of buttery sauerkraut that’s just acidic enough to cut the pork’s fattiness. There’s also a hearty, smoky terrine of chicken and goose liver (RMB55) alongside two grilled triangles of brioche and a few perfect little gherkins. Grilled monkfish (RMB150) was well executed but, in the face of meatier fare, more forgettable.
If you’re looking for weekend brunch for two, there’s nothing better than snagging a little bistro table in the front by the window. The chairs are a little hard, but there’s an endless parade of bewildered tourists, wonderfully-dressed women and crusty locals to watch. Pair this with a perfect plate of poached eggs Florentine (RMB75) lightly topped with hollandaise sauce and served over blanched spinach, smoked salmon and an English muffin, and you’ve got the perfect weekend ritual. Bigger eaters can choose two (RMB125) or three courses (RMB150) to mix and match starters and mains. There’s not much breakfast food, but there is more of that rich, smoky terrine and a lemony swordfish steak sandwiched with cucumber-mint salad and a piquant, grebiche sauce (a fancy name for tartar). Coffee, from locally roasted V. Coffee (also French owned) runs RMB16 for a double espresso and RMB20 for an Americano. For the childless, the front also keeps diners away from families and their rather rambunctious broods. At this distance, brunchers can enjoy good food and the hum of a lively, neighborhood joint without being in the direct line of fire of flying toothpicks and kiddy squabbles.
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