Photos by Claire Zheng
If one food trend deserves the credit (or, if you prefer, the blame) for the proliferation of the 21st-century paradox that is the Korean-Mexican mash-up, it’s Kogi, a Los Angeles-based operation that serves a fusion of Korean barbecue and Mexican street food. Born from the late-night hunger of founders Mark and Caroline with the help of Chef Roy Cho, everything that’s now considered typical of the food-truck scene, Kogi pioneered.
It may have made perfect sense in the context of Los Angeles’ demographic stew, but imagine our surprise when we discovered Honey Beam’s, a brick-and-mortar eatery in the heart of Zhujiang Xincheng.
Our party of four foodies arrived on its opening night expecting a Kogi-inspired version, and disappoint the restaurant did not. Adhering to the Kogi template minus the wheels, it offers warm, homemade tortillas topped with bulgogi (marinated beef), pork, chicken and shrimp, as well as burritos, kimchi quesadillas and rice bowls. The Honey Beam’s team, a native Korean family of sorts, appears to take their stuff seriously; their business plan is well thought out and detailed on their menu, with promises of commitment to freshness and taste. Essential touch points are also addressed through their branding video, which is permanently on repeat.
The open kitchen and metallic, chrome and wooden palette is warm and inviting. Honey Beam’s even sports some accents of Abercrombie & Fitch, with its consistent branding and a neighboring Korean fashion boutique trumpeting the same moniker and style as the eatery.
One of our amigos, a restaurateur himself, could not stop raving about the crispy shrimp taco (RMB35/one, RMB55/two) and short ribs taco (RMB38/one, RMB58/two). Dressed with taco truck embellishments such as a wonderfully fresh cabbage-based slaw, sweet onions, spicy sauces, sour cream and salsa to create a bang-on aftertaste, they are highly addictive. Crunchy Korean fries (RMB60) topped with various condiments and meat are a mountain of textures, all gelling together in one single, luscious bite. We were sold and had barely just begun.
Those who prefer their Korean meals tortilla-free can order bowls of rice topped with gochujang, barbecued meats and garnished with kimchi for just RMB35-47. With base flavors that dig deep, the burritos (RMB48-55) have a swagger and braggadocio, with generous fillings of rice. This dish is not for the carb-conscious so buyers beware; this stuff is seriously heavy. Vegetarians need not bother either, as no options exist on the menu. Drinks are aplenty and the iced chocolate (RMB35) and Heineken ice ball special (RMB78) come highly recommended.
Honey Beam’s, like the Kogi adventure, is bold and ballsy, bringing the rhythms of LA street culture and the warmth of all that California sun to Guangzhou. They’re also Psy-chic; these good folks know that one taco just isn’t enough, so opt for two or a set and get your meat on.
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