The Place
Indian food aficionados now have a reason to brave Guangzhou’s dodgy taxis and visit Liede: J&V Victuals Indian Cuisine.
Once a dingy late-night dive, the now homely, unpretentious space isn’t thronged by too much furniture or unnecessary frills. Rather, it is brought to life by ruby-red walls, mood lighting and a welcoming, dome-shaped ingress to the main dining area and bar.
The Food
Serving up rich Mughlai gastronomy, the kitchen’s three North Indian chefs are sticklers for tradition. They don’t claim to reinvent, refine or modernize; after all, if it ain’t broke, why fix it? Like true Indian-style menus, vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes are separated.
Chicken lovers, eat your heart out with the kebab platter (RMB120), featuring five varieties of chicken in bright colors and charred flavors. The meat is moist and pulls apart effortlessly, a worthy nod to their in-house tandoor oven. If it’s seafood you hanker for, try the tandoori prawns (RMB70/six pieces) and the fish Amritsari tikka (RMB70/six pieces); both exude a smoky flavor that lingers on the palate.
Image by Lena Gidwani/That's
Our vegetarian favorite is the samosa chaat (RMB50), a popular crispy-crunchy-spicy-tangy classic street snack. Our only peeve was the addition of the ginger slivers; request to leave it off and whilst you’re at it, ask for the onions and green chili slices to be cut a tad bit finer. For some golden, crunchy goodness, sink into the dahi ke sholay (RMB50). We’re told that even those who have lost their teeth still enjoy these fried bread rolls stuffed with hung yogurt and spices, especially when dipped into some homemade green chutney.
Now, time to splash out on the curries. The ultimate comfort food is, of course, the formidable butter chicken, and at RMB80, J&V’s version is an ask. The sauce doesn’t disappoint, with a mildly spiced and slightly sweet favor that mingles with generous swirls of melted butter. We’ve been told that spice levels can be cranked up, so do ask if your palate craves it. Pair it with crispy garlic naan (RMB30), and you could very well call it a day.
But don’t, for the palak paneer (RMB75) is quite frankly a stroke of culinary genius, especially when paired with some laccha paratha (RMB30). The mutton rogan josh (RMB90) came with fatty chunks and could have done with less of it.
Image via J&V Victuals
Fancy a rice dish? Our portion of chicken dum biryani (RMB70) was aromatic and fluffy, with rich flavors bursting in our mouths. There are two pages of classic alcoholic pours too, but you’ll be right if you choose the mango lassi (RMB40), a thick, delicious smoothie concocted to blissfully extinguish any fires in your mouth.
Image via J&V Victuals
The Vibe
Uncomplicated and authentic, a meal at J&V warrants the grabbing of hungry mates and Sunday casuals, for a menu this vast deserves a few visits and some dosh to get through it all. Service is not particularly speedy, as food is cooked to order and fresh. That being said, much can be achieved if you make chummy with their obliging and gregarious manager, Das. Does Das work fast? Oh yes, he does, and you will get your curry in a hurry. The verdict? Wobble bobble. And all is well.
Image via J&V Victuals
Price: RMB180
Who’s going: hot stuff
Good for: moist meats cooked in a proper tandoor oven, classic favorites
Nearest metro: Liede (Exit D), 5 minutes
Open daily, 11am to midnight (last order 11.30pm); see listing for J&V Victuals Indian Cuisine.
[Cover image via J&V Victuals]
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