The Place
Tiyu Dong Lu has no dearth of Japanese restaurants and sake spots, which is why the addition of another similar establishment is tempting to overlook. But spend a night of wining and dining at Hemei Japanese Cuisine and it’s clear that the place gallops ahead of the greasy-spoon herd. Tucked away in an alley off Tiyu Dong Lu, Hemei lurks on the second floor hallway of an old building that also harbors a whiskey bar and, yes, yet another Japanese restaurant.
A door slides open and waitresses greet our arrival in Japanese before ushering us to a second floor. Wooden walls and low ceilings strike a cozy tone, while tatami mats and knee-height tables round out the intimate atmosphere. Shoes off, it’s time to eat.
The Food
When patrons are seated, Hemei makes a gesture of its hospitality by offering a large complimentary mushroom, deep-fried and stuffed with pork. Don’t balk at their sprawling bilingual menu (Chinese and Japanese only). Instead, ask the waitress for the day’s list of rotating specials and, if you’re lucky, put your name in for a portion of their precious little supply of basashi.
This pink horsemeat sashimi (RMB78) is one of their imports from Japan – obtained, according to the manager, through ‘secret channels,’ at a volume of three plates per day. Sliced radish, ground ginger and soy sauce are served alongside, to spice up the surprisingly mellow equine cuts.
Follow it up with something hot, like the sublime seafood croquettes (RMB45): deep fried balls of shrimp, crab, potato, mushroom and cheese concealed in a crispy golden coating.
For a glorious seafood main, embrace the savory sophistication of the roast kaibianhua lingcod (RMB45), a North Pacific fish of unparalleled texture. Prefer your meat cooked? Play carnivore’s roulette with the combination skewer platter (RMB65), comprised of a random mix of meat and veg from Hemei’s vast yakitori selection. Beware, though, as mushy cow liver might make an unexpected appearance.
Pair the flavorful dishes with a bottle of warm (RMB60) or iced (RMB70) sake served by attentive and knowledgeable wait staff who respond with swiftness to a convenient tabletop bell.
The Vibe
Although we don’t quite see eye-to-eye with Hemei’s J-pop soundtrack, sitting on zaisus with your legs resting on tatami is a blissful way to dine and, judging by the satisfied Japanese regulars, we’re not the only ones who seem to think so.
Price: RMB200
Who’s going: the after-work Japanese crowd, worldly female diners
Good for: impressing a date, warm sake, unparalleled service
Nearest metro: Tiyu Xilu (Exit B), 8 minutes
Open daily, 5.30pm-midnight; see listing for Hemei.
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