The Place
The director of A Bite of China once pointed out that a Chinese gourmand who’s never been to Shantou can’t call himself one. He said that for a reason: Chaoshan, where the eastern Guangdong cities Chaozhou, Shantou and Jieyang lie, boasts recipes that date back to 200 BC. The region has been likened to a ‘Treasure Island’ in the sea of Chinese cuisines.
Guo Xiao Jiang (粿小匠), new on Tiyu Dong Lu, brings into focus one staple Chaoshan dish: kuy teav – a pho-like, rice noodle soup normally served in pork stock.
The Food
The eatery crafts noodle soups topped with various cuts of beef, hence the range in prices (a soup with foreshank is RMB32, while one with tenderloin sells for RMB25).
As a Chaoshan ren, I can confidently attest that the portion of beef topping is pathetic by traditional standards, which is disappointing considering that’s typically the highlight of Chaoshan beef noodles. You can remedy the situation by opting for extra toppings, such as the beef balls (牛肉丸, RMB12), another famous Chaoshan export.
Topping complaints aside, the kuy teav, served with pickled veggies, boasts a delicate flavor. Do yourself a favor and throw in all the fixings: beloved shacha, or powdered seafood sauce, and medium-hot chili paste – in case you find the kuy teav too bland.
Prepare to practice your Mandarin, as Guo Xiao Jiang’s WeChat menu only lists dishes in characters. View it by scanning the QR code on your table.
For a side, try the oyster omelet (蚝仔烙, RMB22): a small dish prepared with oysters, egg batter and starch that’s a favorite in Chaoshan, Taiwan and Fujian. Best eaten with a touch of salty fish sauce, its outer layers are deliciously crispy and center juicy.
The Vibe
The restaurant’s decor is mundanely white, but modern. The space is well-lit, and sunlight easily seeps through the floor-to-ceiling windows.
Though not perfect, Guo Xiao Jiang is a welcome step up from most Guangzhou eateries specializing in kuy teav, which tend to be quite remiss in their aesthetic – and sanitary – departments.
Price: RMB50
Who’s going: Tiyu Xi Lu shoppers, Ga gi nang (Chaoshan people)
Good for: beef rice noodle soup, oyster omelets
Nearest metro: Tiyu Xi Lu (Exit B), 10 minutes
Open daily, 10am-10pm; see listing for Guo Xiao Jiang.
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