Grappa’s has yearned for a satisfactory spot in Guangzhou for quite some time now. With two branches in Hong Kong, the Italian restaurant and bar – also regarded as ‘Italian-American’ by critics that cite pepperoni on the pizza – initially intended to occupy the rooftop of TaiKoo Hui years ago. When that plan fell through, the managers temporarily set their sights on Starlight Walk in Haizhu, which has since devolved into a low-grade square overrun by Chinese canteens.
So when word spread that an immaculate mall with an Apple store would open in 2016, Grappa’s managers signed a contract almost immediately, calling it ‘destiny’ the way most Chinese do when something in life goes remotely right.
Located at B166 in the circular maze that is Parc Central, Grappa’s offers an easy-to-find entrance outside the mall directly below Apple’s suspended palace. This secret doorway is significant because it means patrons can stay, soaking up live classical music and Australian Shiraz, until 1am – long after the plaza closes.
Entering directly from the street also probably makes the decor seem less ‘mall-esque.’ After an hour of sitting, when preconceived notions begin to fade, one realizes Grappa’s interior design is actually extraordinary: part of the dining area resembles the ancient caves of Matera in southern Italy, with gothic, wrought iron chandeliers overhead. Though that particular corner could have been plucked from the Middle Ages, the other half of the room is bright and cheery, full of natural sunlight.
Like most restaurants, Grappa’s claims it imports most ingredients, but flavors indicate that might be true. The insalata di cesare (RMB58), with razor-thin slices of Parmesan, homemade croutons, minuscule bacon bits and invisible house dressing takes on the role of an experienced butler: it’s subconsciously pleasing.
The mussels – doused in a delectable cream, onion, carrot and white wine sauce and served with homemade French bread that’s dry enough to feed to ducks – are imported from Chili, New Zealand or France, depending on where they are in season. Prices vary accordingly.
An undisputed favorite is the perfectly cooked, homemade pasta blackened with squid ink and topped with seasoned shrimp and cream sauce (RMB148). It is absolutely worth the price – if you’re lucky enough to see it prepared correctly, that is.
Pizzas are, except for the American-inspired pepperoni, authentically Italian. A gorgeous wood-fire oven shipped in from Japan ensures crusts are thin, evenly baked and completely greaseless. The Parma pizza (RMB108) with Spanish prosciutto, rocket and ripe tomato paste is delicious and light, lacking only in the cheese, which tastes too processed.
Be sure to leave room for the desserts, which were conceived by a renowned pastry chef of the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong. The house tiramisu (RMB68) is supposedly a hit, but the hazelnut cheesecake (RMB38) and strawberry tart (RMB15) will easily mend disappointment if the signature sweet is sold out when you visit.
Perhaps sealed by ‘destiny’ after all, Grappa’s long-awaited home in Guangzhou has certainly hit the ground running. As long as it maintains the quality of its ingredients, this newcomer is here to stay.
Price: RMB200 (not including wine)
Who’s going: tuhao with taste, Antonio Carluccio
Good for: homemade pasta, undisturbed fine dining
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