What does vegetarianism mean to you? Probably something very different than what it signifies to the person sitting next to you. The scope of vegetarianism varies greatly across cultures, with some avoiding all dairy products, eggs and even honey, while others take a more relaxed approach.
As for Chinese vegetarians – most of whom follow the basic tenets of Buddhism – there is no shame in consuming certain seafood, like prawns, but one’s lips should never touch pungent veggies like garlic, scallions or onions. What’s more, the presentation of Chinese vegetarian dishes (as seen in Buddhist or Taoist temples) is almost always straightforward and free of frills.
Nestled on the fourth floor of Modern Mall next to Exit C of Dongshangkou Metro Station, Shuimusheng (水木笙), a new vegetarian eatery (its signboard reads ‘vegan,’ but we’ll talk about bad translation another time), is consistent with such beliefs – aside from the fancy plating.
Its young owners strive to add panache to each dish, which, when combined with the restaurant’s astute service, has already won it popularity. Though open for only three months, the place is regularly thronged with patrons waiting for a savory lunch or dinner.
Here, glass walls, birdcages and wooden furniture fit well with the gray concrete floor and pillars, interweaving an old-time Cantonese feel into contemporary decor.
Buddhists believe life is not complete without tasting the ‘four flavors’ of existence: sourness, sweetness, bitterness and spiciness. Shuimusheng has infused its organic food – harvested from distant, mountainous regions of China – with each of the four essences.
The menu is regrettably only available in Chinese, so look for the thumbs-up icons and be sure to order the xiaolongbao (翡翠布袋, RMB88/four). At first glance, spending 22 kuai on one dumpling seems excessive, but hear this: each soupy pocket requires no less than 10 steps to prepare. Filled with a delicious array of mushrooms and corn kernels and topped with grape sago, it’s an unusual but aromatic combination. The guava sauce drizzled on top yields a refreshing, fruity finish.
For appetizers, try the Fours Flavor of Life (人生四味, RMB38), a dish featuring a quartet of uniquely prepared vegetables that will tempt diverse, demanding palates. Huakai fugui (花开富贵, RMBXX), a vegetable roll composed of laver, egg and vegetables wrapped in a tofu skin, also has a pleasant, rich taste.
Shumusheng has departed from rigid Chinese vegetarian cuisine in favor of something more fun. It attempts to incorporate all eight of China’s great regional cuisines and, at least with some dishes, has hit the nail on the head. Come try it out, but remember to book a table in advance.
Price: RMB80
Who’s going: vegetarians in their 20s or 30s, trendy foodies
Good for: well-presented veggies, Buddhist fare with a twist
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