Last month, we talked about pinot noir from the United States as the ideal pairing for your turkey dinner. A few days after the November issue hit the stands, we received an email from a longtime reader who said he’d also read our March column about French pinot noir, and he wanted to know whether it differed significantly in taste from its US cousin.
The answer is: yes – particularly since pinot noir is known for being a rather changeable chap at the best of times. Even though Oregon (where a lot of famed American pinot noir comes from) and Burgundy (homeland of pinot noir) are on approximately the same latitude, the practices and history of cultivation have led to distinct characteristics.
Broadly speaking, the US version tends to be bold and in your face, with a more fruit-forward flavor and higher alcohol content. Conversely, the French product (often just called Burgundy, since the region has become synonymous with its pinot noir) is noted for being more complex and herbaceous. In typical Old World style, the regulations guiding the manufacture of pinot noir are stringent and the approved method time honored, so fewer adulterations are allowed than in the New World. This can lead to differences in oakiness and acidity, among other things.
The best way to really understand the variation, however, is always to taste for yourself. This month, we’re featuring Albert Bichot winery’s Heritage 1831 Pinot Noir. As the name suggests, this vineyard has been around for 184 years, passed down from father to son through the generations. The fourth largest wine company in Burgundy, it is consistently recognized as one of the top winemakers in the world.
The Heritage 1831 Pinot Noir has a ruby-red color, with aromas of wild cherry and a light smokiness. Velvety in the mouth, it has silky tannins and a full body, so pair it with red meat, game or venison.
> Albert Bichot Heritage 1831 Pinot Noir can be purchased from Kerry Wines, 2/F, Tower One, Kerry Plaza, Zhongxin Si Lu, Futian District, Shenzhen 深圳市福田区中心四路嘉里建设广场1座2楼 (0755-8256 0593, info.prc@kerrywines.com)
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