It’s no secret that we are huge fans of everything Thai. Given the chance, we would happily live out the rest of our days in the Land of Smiles. In fact, it would be perfectly normal for us to wake up and say, we feel like a pad kra pao for breakfast, and then go out and get some. Yum.
A slightly clandestine second-floor location makes this new debutante to Xingsheng Lu feel like a true find. If the semicircular layout, ceiling-high elephant cut-outs, dramatically suspended luminosities and flamboyant mosaic tiles don’t capture your attention, the beautiful people making thirst-quenchers with young coconut water, avocado, fresh juices, liqueurs, wines and beers at their central bar will. It’s a well-designed space, with a nod to both old and new.
What separates Mr. Thai from other joints is the curatorial role of native Chef Aphichat, who channels his culinary pedigree through imported ingredients and an ingenious pictorial menu. Featuring tastefully presented dishes, he accompanies the warm, chargrilled pork neck slices (RMB65) with pickled vegetables and a sweet and spicy dip.
The papaya salad (RMB45) is spot on; wedges of tomato, dried shrimp, crushed peanuts and ribbons of green papaya are brought together to create a super spicy, tangy, fresh mix. The grilled salmon salad (RMB78) features hunks of marinated fish, seared to perfection and luxuriating on a bed of juicy mango and fresh greens, while the shrimp cake (RMB68), tom yam soup with shrimp (RM42/118) and chicken satay (RMB55) showcase prowess with the most basic of starters. The portions are generous in size and we’re tucking in with no inhibitions. It’s good Each flavor profile is balanced and there’s been no skimping in the ingredients.
For mains, we’re fixated on pad kra pao (RMB48) and a pad thai (RMB52). Call us imaginative, but we like to think it’s a good benchmark. The pork mince is fragrant with the scent of holy basil; it’s spicy and lean, and there’s enough sauce so that each mouthful of meat and lettuce isn’t dry. The rice noodles are both savory and sweet, with condiments presented the way they should be – on the side and ready to be mixed in. The restaurant’s deft hand with seafood, from clams to crabs, is evident; try their succulent rendition of steamed fish resting in a zesty hot pot of cut chilies, lemongrass and lime (RMB128), and the very appetizing brown rice with tom yam (RMB52). Delicate tongues can rest easy as most dishes, such as their green and red curries, come in standard pungencies.
If mains have slaked your cravings for dessert, order the assorted platter (RMB68) of coconut, mango, sticky rice and other sweet enchantments. It might inspire you to keep this culinary discovery close to your vest, while mentally filing away what to order the next time. There’s no doubt we’ll be back. Pad ka pao for breakfast, anyone?
Price: RMB100
Who’s going: Spice junkies, Khao San Road addicts
Good for: Thai-riffic bites, overcoming Bangkok blues
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